||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 315', Grade II
|Original: ||M5+ [details]|
|FA: ||Nate Brown, Sam Macke|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||327|
|Submitted By: ||Nate Brown on Jan 2, 2015|
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BETA PHOTO: big slab topo
Good rock, thin cracks that take pins, about forty feet of ice, frozen muck and moss sticks characterize the climbing. The route is on a huge slab with intermittent vertical bulges. Each pitch had a bit of a crux and generally the climbing is good as a mixed climb. The route would probably be a dirty, no-stars type affair in summer time.
Pitch 1 30 meters--climb the steep hand crack or go right 5.8 around then straight up fun broken alpine terrain to a good stance with two SS bolts.
Pitch 2 25 meters--climb the right trending hanging corners to two bolts that are followed by the ice section:straight up is steep awesome m6+ crack torqueing or take 5.8 path up and right to a two bolt SS anchor.
Pitch 3 20 meters--traverse right to good shallow corners that provide fun dry tooling up to a small, short technical chimney with awesome hooking and good small feet leading to another two bolt SS anchor.
Pitch 4 20 meters--climb diagonally up and right starting with a juggy mantle and moving across dirty and hard to protect terrain moving toward the arête di himney about fifteen feet left of the end of the gully. Climb on up to a slung evergreen tree.
Left of the East buttress is a huge slab. Piton Country climbs the center of the huge slab. A nice fifteen foot hand crack bulge marks the bottom of the first pitch. The route is about 75' left of the mega-aesthetic Rasberry Arête.
Full free rack to 3 Camalot with plenty of pins will do the job. Bring medium and big beaks, blades, angles and shallow angles.
Belay bolts are all 3.5" x 3/8" stainless with stainless hangers. No lead bolts placed on FA.
Retro-fitting pitch two with two bits of stainless...
BETA PHOTO: The route starts in the nice crack at bot. left, g...
BETA PHOTO: The icy section of pitch 2:between the streaks is ...