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Pitch Black 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 800'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Marko Steffen, Mehgan Curry & Kevin Nicastro
Page Views: 3,588
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Jan 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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Trevor Smith and Bailey Crawford making their way ...

Description 

Climbs a long black streak to the top of the wall. Varied climbing on good rock with long pitches. There are a couple of blocks on the last pith with "skull & cross bones" stenciled to them. All the belays are comfy ledges.
P1, 5.9+ 50m
P2, 5.10+ 35m
P3, 5.9 25m
cable traverse 5m [combine with 3rd pitch]
P4, 5.10+ 35m
P5, 5.9 25m
P6, 5.10- 50m 21 bolts but a few can easily be skipped

Rappels [1st is from the top]
1: 33m [to 1st mid station]
2: 36m [we cam up short with a 70m rope, suggest simulrap to get exta stretch]
3: 35m [to top of cable]
4: 25m [top of P2]
?? an 80m might make it to the 2nd mid station?? in which case you could go directly to the next mid station??
5: 35m [to top of P1]
6: 20m [to 3rd mid station]
7: 30m to ground

Location 

Start at name plate.
Right of 'The New Ape Man'
Left of ' Mexican Radio'

Protection 

70 meter rope mandatory!!!!!
Bolts and anchors
Chains on the rap stations.
note there a intermidiate rap stations don't confuse them as belays.


Photos of Pitch Black Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ominous death blocks
Ominous death blocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of Pitch Black with a rattlesnake hanging out...
Base of Pitch Black with a rattlesnake hanging out...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top out of Pitch Black.
The view from the top out of Pitch Black.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gotta love a nice seated belay from the top of pit...
Gotta love a nice seated belay from the top of pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the 3rd pitch, with the odd cable trave...
BETA PHOTO: Heading up the 3rd pitch, with the odd cable trave...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Pitch Black
Summit of Pitch Black
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful, exposed face climbing on pitch 4
Beautiful, exposed face climbing on pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: 5th pitch
BETA PHOTO: 5th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of Pitch Black.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Pitch Black.

Comments on Pitch Black Add Comment
Show which comments
By Marcelo Gzz
From: Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Apr 29, 2014

One of the most funny multipith ever done. It has all kind of rock from slabs to dihiedral. Well bolted!! a few lose rocks here and there because it needs to be visited more often.

Firt pitch: good to warm up,
Second pitch: the crux is right after standing in a palm tree with a few crimps to a good hole at the left.
third pitch: a little dhiedral to the left then move to the right to a a slab with some nice moves.
Fouth pitch: the tricky one! great moves with hidden smalls holds, with a little patience you will find some small-medium holds.
fifth pitch: Good easy dhiedral
Sixth pitch: long one with some lose rocks here and there.


Congrats!!
By Harry Netzer
Jan 16, 2015

Sick, sustained, hard 10 climbing. Avoid the manky old bolts. I went for one on p2 and found myself on very difficult terrain!
By BrianWS
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Awesome and sustained. Some awful rock quality on the upper 2 pitches, most of which is very clearly marked.

Really oddly bolted. You can clip 3 bolts from a single stance at one moment, and then have 20 foot spacing over fairly difficult terrain.
By Tim Fry
From: Charlotte NC
Jan 21, 2015

P1 50m, pass up an intermediate belay.
P2 33m, belay before dihedral.
P3 25m, can be linked with p2. Set belay after cable traverse.
P4 35m, a bit tricky. Extendables useful, especially if linking.
P5 20m? short dihedral, could easily be linked with p4.
P6 50m, pass up an intermediate rap station & take it to the palm tree.

Second the comment about strange bolting, but REALLY fun movement.

Rap according to description instructions. We had no problems getting our 70m to reach the anchors.

My buddy Mitch linked this in 3 pitches (1&2, 3$&4, 5&6) with just 2 meters of simul at the start.
By Morgan F. Smith
From: Texas
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome climb! Great warm-up multipitch for harder climbs in the Potrero, stays in shade until about 2 or 3 in the afternoon in the summer. A 70 meter rope will suffice for all belays. The 4th pitch may be considered 11a imo
By nicktucker
From: Portland, OR
Oct 5, 2015

Awesome route! The 2nd pitch is NOT 50m, and calling it a dihedral is a stretch at best. It's a flake... Definitely recommend simul-rapping, we barely made it to one of the rap stations with a 70 while simul-rapping (I think it was the 4th).
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Feb 18, 2016

I'd give it 4 starts except the route needs loose rock trundled, and rap anchors sorted. We took an extra rope for descent, but another party had real trouble with rope length and actually untied to down climb. Not a great option still 500'+ off the deck.

Otherwise, great multipitch. Second pitch is 5 stars!
By 20 kN
Administrator
From: Hawaii
Jan 13, 2017

Great route. I'd give it 3.5 stars. This is one of the more sustained 5.10s in EPC and it's totally worth doing. Be sure to bring a 70m or two ropes as a 60m wont work. P2 is sustained and fantastic, lead it! I dident feel like the upper 5.10d was 5.10d. Either P2 is 5.11- or P4 is not 5.10+.

Also, it looks like the bolts on this route have been replaced, but the old bolts remain. It would be great if someone would bring an adjustable wrench up with them and remove the old bolts as almost every pitch has old bolts that need removal.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jan 28, 2017

Stellar route. Everything from sustained pitches, overly well bolted, great views and clean rock. 1 pitch (pitch 5 I think?) has some lose chockstones, but great P Chico quality. No joke about needing a 70m.

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