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Pitbull Lipstick 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FOS
Page Views: 963
Submitted By: Colin Cox on May 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Colin up high on Pitbull Listick.

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Description 

The name is a reference to my dog, and a retarded politician from Alaska. Pitbull Lipstick climbs one of the tallest and most prominent columns at the crag. It's one of the first things to catch your eye upon arriving at this section of cliff. Start with a little overhang and back clean your first draw after clipping the second one. Continue up the fun stemming dihedral above. The crux comes as you traverse left out of the dihedral onto the beautiful plated column. Underclings, a shallow two finger pocket, textured edges, and clean footwork will get you through to a rest before the final 30 feet of 5.11 hero climbing to the anchor.

Location 

Middle of the wall. Look for the proudest, tallest column with plates on it.

Protection 

11 bolts to anchor


Photos of Pitbull Lipstick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Helen Padilla gets the first female ascent of Pitb...
Helen Padilla gets the first female ascent of Pitb...

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By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 29, 2015

PISS hard 12c.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 29, 2015

CC would have it no other way!
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jun 8, 2015

This line is for sure harder than Black Swan for sure.
By Colin Cox
Jun 9, 2015

Black Swan is a long v6 boulder problem. Pitbull Lipstick is a technique tester, old school 5.11 with a beta intensive v4 in the middle. I've done PL hanging the draws at least three times, but I've yet to send Black Swan.
By Colin Cox
Jul 15, 2015

Hey Pat, you'll give it at least three stars once you can do it.
By ZoltanPapp
Oct 26, 2015

To be fair, I'm not a boulderer but I don't think there is a V6 on Black Swan. And still to be fair if this only had a V4 on it I don't think it could earn 5.12c.

It is hard, and it might sooth some more than others. Nevertheless it's one of the best lines I've been on for whatever that grade is.
:)
By Colin Cox
Oct 27, 2015

Good synopsis Zoltan. Maybe it's a v5. To be fair, there isn't an ounce of fat on your perpetually exposed and ripped torso, so I can see why Black Swan feels so easy. It's an endurance v6. Usually my cup of tea but BS is fingery, like PL, but the crux goes on for twice as long with the hardest move near the end. One more piece of info...when first TRing this thing an old schooler was suggesting 12a. I try to find the balance with ratings.
By MarcYY
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 10, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Some stemming, some hard shenanigans, some amazing head wall action. Wonder if direct goes?

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