REI Community
Tuefelstalwand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpentraum S 
Pissoir du Diable 6b T,S 
Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ S 

Pissoir du Diable 6b 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stefan Buehlmann, Roman Dolf
Season: Summer, autumn
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The fun exit pitch of Pissoir du Diable (6a). The ...

Description 

Not as spectacular as the neighboring Zeichen der Freundschaft, but certainly a worthwhile climb. In contrast to the Zeichen route, the difficulties in this climb are defined more by thin face climbing sections.

The crux early in third pitch (6b) is a thin and technical sequence up to and over a bulge on small sidepulls and crimpers. We found the crux moves in the seventh pitch (6a+) to be the most challenging of the route, as it traverses around a large flake using high underclings for the hands and counterpressure alone to keep the feet pasted on the smooth, near vertical face. Otherwise, we thought the grading was a bit on the soft side.

Topo

Location 

The route is approximately 80 meters further up the base of the gorge from the Zeichen route. There are fixed ropes leading to the start of the climb, which itself is labeled.

Protection 

We found the bolting to be better than the topo would suggest. All the face climbing sections are very well bolted. A small assortment of cams should suffice to complement the almost adequate bolting on the crack climbing sections.


Photos of Pissoir du Diable 6b Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux of pitch seven, Pissoir du Diable (6a+)
Crux of pitch seven, Pissoir du Diable (6a+)
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch five of Pissoir du Diable (6a) - stay in the...
Pitch five of Pissoir du Diable (6a) - stay in the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch six of Pissoir du Diable (5c)
Pitch six of Pissoir du Diable (5c)
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one of Pissoir du Diable (6a)
Pitch one of Pissoir du Diable (6a)

Comments on Pissoir du Diable 6b Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About