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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Franklin - 2005
Page Views: 2,225
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Oct 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Once a chossy route, this route has cleaned up into a viable warmup for the crag. A bouldery start leads into easier climbing, with another cruxy move near the top.


Furthest route on the right



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2017
By phillip Hranicka
Apr 13, 2008

Must say: this isn't THAT bad! Sure, the rock is chossy, but the moves are more enjoyable than the lower part of the "warm up". It has its place, IMO. (The warm up was seeping, so we decided to give it a go)
By Philip Scoles
From: bum fuck, Oregon
Nov 28, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

best route ever...
By orclimber
From: Portland, OR
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

fun route and easier than the 'warmup'. a little sharp and loose.
By ktaylor
From: Bay Area, CA
May 26, 2009

This is a fun route and probably a better warmup than the warmup. The rock doesn't seem that much worse than anything else either.
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Oct 25, 2011

Actually pretty fun. Way more jugs than anything else out there. Time to RP it 100 more times and get it ruthlessly dialed. . . Feels like hard 11 by RC standards.
By Mark Huth
From: Portland, OR
Jun 18, 2012

12a if you have to use the short person beta
By Geoff-cyclewolf
From: Portland, OR
Nov 2, 2013

12a if you have to use the tall man beta. Whoever bolted, cleaned, glued and groomed this route should be commended. Could use kinder carabiners than ovals on the anchors but than again maybe that's part of its charm.
By pdxuller
Nov 5, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Yes a big thank you to those who cleaned up this route. Pretty fun with no single difficult move.
By Eric Franklin
Feb 6, 2015

Glad you guys are enjoying the route. I cleaned, bolted (on hooks!) and sent the route in 2005. Haven't been out there in a few years so it's probably a totally different route now. Called it 11d because it was easier than the warmup.
By Jacob Wren
From: Portland
Apr 10, 2017

4/7/17 Carson and I went. He lead I flailed haha. FYI Carson was generous enough to leave a brand new 16ft stick clip tucked away for other climbers. Use it and leave it!
By Daniel Carter
From: Portland, Oregon
Apr 18, 2017

I lead this over the weekend. Hell of a warm-up! I fell at the crux move and heard a pop from the 5th bolt. Upon closer inspection I noticed a hairline crack passing through the rock and the bolt placement. I'm not entirely sure it was there before I fell or after. Sorry. Use extreme caution when climbing this route... and huge thanks to Carson for the stick clip. Super handy!

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