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Pirate Treasure 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas & Clay Watson 07'
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,848
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


"Professor, what's another name for Pirate Treasure?" "well I think it's Booooooty-B-B-booooottttty yep thats what it is"

"Cause I'm the master blaster
Drinking up the shasta
My voice sounds sweet 'cause it has to" -Beastie Boys

This route starts on some rust colored streaks. The 2nd bolt can seem high, just remember those jugs are good! Keep you footwork together and sequence to make the slipmer moves to a rest. Shuffle along the shelf going left, at the end are some wild sculpted chickenheads. Climb up and right using more memorable chickenheads to the anchor. WILD!

See topo.


The route starts at the top of the hill (which often is full of Thistle). Find a flat spot kicked in the hill for the belay.



Photos of Pirate Treasure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping from the top
Rapping from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: This thing has a cool crux!
This thing has a cool crux!

Comments on Pirate Treasure Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Oct 13, 2008

Overhanging granite jug hauling is an uncommon thing in the Wasatch.
By tenesmus
Jul 4, 2012

Bump to get more people on this one. Grab the sloper and chuck!
By Daniel Winder
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Got a sweet handjam and high feet and skipped the sloper. Awesome pitch, slightly shitty belay. No loose rock anywhere on the route.
By John Steiger
Aug 15, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I spent at least a good 10 minutes trying to figure out how to skip the sloper; Daniel, you must have a wingspan matching LeBron’s. A really good route; kudos to the FA. By the way, what’s the line just to the right of Pirate Treasure? I’d say it's 11a, two stars (and advise taking microcams).
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Jun 16, 2013

Definitely a height dependent crux.. I'm 5'9".. whiff
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2013

As others mentioned, If you're around 6' or have a decent ape index you can reach all the way to the jug from the hand jam, thus skipping the sloper. In other words, the difficulty of this climb is very much height dependent. Also, the route does not start at the top of the hill (as stated in the description). It starts 20-30 down from the top. The rust colored streak is the easiest marker.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 10, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is an excellent route! Very cool rock the second half.

Do your second a favor if they're weaker, and unclip/pull out the first and second QDs/bolts after the crux so they don't get pulled over into the nothingness if they fall.

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