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Reservoir Wall
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Pirate Treasure  T 
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Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 
Unnamed 5.10 T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 
Warm-Up Handcrack T 
Wigglin' Worm T 
Will-Mento T 

Pirate Treasure  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Gilmore and John Varco circa 1999
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: Greg Gavin on Sep 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Looking for some adventure, and wanna get off the deck? This thing climbs more like a tower than any mundane splitter you'll find at the base. Kind of like the big brother to Neutron Dance.

    20 ft right of Middle Crack lies a pile of choss. Pick the cleanest 5.8 path up the bottom portion, and step into a short finger crack. Climb up this till you find yourself at the bottom of a short 5.8 ow. Climb this and step left and you'll be at the bottom of a 40ft squeeze. Squirm up here to the top, and belay at 2 Metolius rap hangers.

    From here the route is obvious as it ascends the splitter big hands to fist crack. Climb this bad boy up and squeeze through a few pods at the top and belay on a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.

    There is a hand crack on the right side of this ledge that continues up, but we did not take the opportunity to venture further.


    The start is 20 feet right of Middle Crack, and the second pitch is the splitter directly above. Can't miss it!


    Single set from .3-#1, 2x #2, 4-5 #3 & #4, Single #5. New Camalot Sizes.

    Comments on Pirate Treasure Add Comment
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    By Eric Fjellanger
    Nov 12, 2013

    There IS a good anchor on the second pitch, on a big ledge above some dirty squeeze chimney climbing with sketchy chockstones.

    The p1 chimney is pretty fun and can be climbed utilizing a hand crack (that forms the second pitch). The wide-hands crack on p2 is really great climbing.

    However the chimneys and flares above that are pretty nasty, hard, unaesthetic climbing. Maybe my experience was colored by not being sure whether there was an anchor above, but I definitely wish there were bolts at the end of the hand crack.
    By Bryan Gilmore
    From: New England
    Mar 18, 2014

    FA: Bryan Gilmore and John Varco circa 1999 or 2000
    By Greg Gavin
    From: SLC, UT
    Mar 19, 2014

    Bryan did you guys take it to the rim? I assume you did.
    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Sep 11, 2016
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Just climbed this and went to the rim. The last pitch is about 60' long and mostly hands with a wide piece or two. There is no anchor on the top but we were able to run the rope around a large boulder directly above the 2nd pitch anchor. Just make sure that whoever raps first checks to see if the rope will pull before the second person raps down.

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