|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Bob Horan, Chule Lee, 1998|
|Submitted By:||Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001|
|Comments on Pirate Radar||Add Comment|
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By Mark Rolofson
Feb 12, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Great route but this route description is a bit misleading. First, this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins. In 1999, (with Bob Horan's permission) I replaced the pins with 2 bolts. The upper piton was a large angle that I removed, the other 2 pins, I couldn't get out but are easily ignored. The 5th bolt allows you to make one clip instead of clipping two pitons from the very strenuous, thin crack in the ceiling. As for bringing gear for the upper crack, you've got to be kidding! The 5th & 6th bolts are 4 feet apart.
As for loose rock, there is none. I've climbed it every year since 2010 and back in 1999. I don't use the chalked up flake left of the crack. It is better to undercling the crack to a deep fingerlock near the 2nd piton, to then reach out to good hand jams. At the lip, go left on face holds. I strongly recommend taping your hands. I've lost flesh each year from the back of my hands, wrists & palm of my left thumb from the fingerlock.
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2017
|Rolofson got this wrong in his guidebook. The direct start was toproped by Bob Horan and Chul Lee, hands down.|