REI Community
Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Pirate Radar Direct T 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Pirate Radar Direct 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Chris Weidner (lead), November 2, 2016. TR: Bob Horan, Chule Lee, 1997
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Nov 22, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking up, this shows the thin seam of the direct...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Six feet left of Pirate Radar is a short, overhanging seam that joins the main line at its spectacular roof crack. This direct start has a short but fierce boulder problem that's marginally protected with a few small cams. The hardest single move is fairly safe, but falling a few moves higher could be ugly because it's not too far off the deck.

Continue to the anchor with a couple more cams (or clip a few bolts).


For an all gear ascent:
1 each: #00 Black Diamond C3 - #1 Camalot

Or: 1ea: #00 Black Diamond C3 - #0.5 Camalot, 3 bolts.

  • a blue/yellow Metolius offset cam is helpful.

Comments on Pirate Radar Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By bhoran
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2017

Rolofson guidebook got this wrong.
Pirate Radar Direct was toproped by Bob Horan, Chul Lee, 1997. Good lead, Chris!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About