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Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
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Pirate Radar S 
Pirate Radar Direct T 
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Pirate Radar Direct 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Chris Weidner (lead), November 2, 2016. TR: Bob Horan, Chule Lee, 1997
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Nov 22, 2016

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Looking up, this shows the thin seam of the direct...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Six feet left of Pirate Radar is a short, overhanging seam that joins the main line at its spectacular roof crack. This direct start has a short but fierce boulder problem that's marginally protected with a few small cams. The hardest single move is fairly safe, but falling a few moves higher could be ugly because it's not too far off the deck.

Continue to the anchor with a couple more cams (or clip a few bolts).

Protection 

For an all gear ascent:
1 each: #00 Black Diamond C3 - #1 Camalot

Or: 1ea: #00 Black Diamond C3 - #0.5 Camalot, 3 bolts.

  • a blue/yellow Metolius offset cam is helpful.


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By bhoran
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2017

Rolofson guidebook got this wrong.
Pirate Radar Direct was toproped by Bob Horan, Chul Lee, 1997. Good lead, Chris!

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