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Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: John Auld, Gary Ziegler, Jim Dyson, John Kuglin 1961
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 7, 2006

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Description 

Pitch 1: Climb slab to a crack, follow the crack up past two 1/4' bolts and a bulge to a ledge and an anchor. (5.10)

Pitch 2: Free past the bolts that are up and right of the anchor, until they stop. Continue on mixed free and aid, 1-2 aid moves, to another ledge and anchor. (5.10, C1)

Pitch 3: This is a really loose pitch. Climb up, staying to the right. Climb through a notch in the summit cap rock, to an anchor. (5.8+R)

Note: Desert Rock III says that this route goes free at 5.10. But pitch 2 seemed like it would be much harder than that to free. On pitch 2, the rock is loose, the crack, the holds and the gear all sort of runs out at once.

Location 

This route was originaly climbed from the notch between the Pipe Organ Spire and Organ Pipe spire on the north side of the formation (which is what's described above).

Harvey Carter added a one pitch direct start to this route which starts on the southeast side of the rock formation and climbs to the same notch. The direct start appears to be a loose chimney.

(Note: the ground level on the South side of the formation is about 100' lower than it is on the North side.)

Whichever way you go whether walking or climbing, when you get to the notch between the towers, there is a bolt visible about 30' up in a wide pod, showing you the route.

Protection 

Standard desert rack. I aided on small Aliens for pitch 2.

Descent: we brought two 60 meter ropes, but it looked as if 1 would have worked fine. Bring webbing to replace the existing webbing.


Comments on Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast Add Comment
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By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Mar 23, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 R

Bring a small-medium tricam for pitch 2. It is necessary if you are aiding. It would be possible to free, but the gear is pretty bad below it. On P3, I had no gear in that would hold a large fall, and I was about 25-30 feet runout for a pretty hard (5.9), chossy move. Excellent summit.
By Airbiscuit
Feb 21, 2016

The summit pitch on this route is one of the worst pitches in The Monument. Probably only 5.8 but a pretty scary 5.8.

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