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Black Widow Slab
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Dracula S 
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Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
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Pipe Dreams S 
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Pipe Dreams 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Sangdahl & Baldwin
Page Views: 1,986
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 7, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Chip leading Pipe Dreams #3.

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  • Description 

    This is a very nice sport climb on the North Face of Black Widow. Immediately around the corner from Vaino/BobD's new routes, right of Dracula and the Resinator is this pitch.

    The lower section features back-to-back mantles to get established at a no-hands rest. The next section climbs a knobby face to a ledge with an intermediate anchor. Avoid stemming into the adjacent corner in this section, that is slightly contrived and thus the reason this is a 2-star climb and not 3. Unclip the anchor draw and (if you can reach it) the last bolt on the lower section to alleviate rope drag on this wandering pitch. The upper section makes a traverse left to a crack, followed by a tricky traverse back right and eventually into a jug hole (crux). It is easier climbing to the top.

    Bring a 60m rope since this is a fairly long one.

    Protection 

    14 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is also an intermediate anchor.


    Photos of Pipe Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chip leading Pipe Dreams #2.
    Chip leading Pipe Dreams #2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: John Baldwin leading Pipe Dreams.
    John Baldwin leading Pipe Dreams.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chip leading Pipe Dreams #1.
    Chip leading Pipe Dreams #1.
    Rock Climbing Photo: John Baldwin on Pipe Dreams. Photo: Bob Horan Coll...
    John Baldwin on Pipe Dreams. Photo: Bob Horan Coll...

    Comments on Pipe Dreams Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By J Baldwin
    May 1, 2010

    To clarify this route description, the second section stays just to the right of the wide crack using pockets and face holds that move upwards and right to finish with a thin crack and the anchors. Also, I did the first free ascent after setting this route up. -John Baldwin.
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Jul 17, 2013
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    The second half of this climb is confusing. From the ledge, I saw three options: 1. climb straight up the bolted face above the ledge; 2. climb the hand crack to the left of the bolts to its own anchor, this is what the guidebook says to do; 3. climb the corner on the right and reach over and clip. The upper part is weird with a lot of options. It might be a better route if it stopped at the first anchor. Also stemming into the corner on the first half is the smart way to climb it, staying on the face the whole time is way contrived. If this route stopped at the first anchor, I still think it would be 12b due to the hard start.
    By Mark Rolofson
    May 22, 2015
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Thanks for your comment, Jack. Bob's book is just wrong about climbing the crack on the upper part (pitch 2) of the climb & so is the route description posted on this page of MP. The crack is Bong Session. I have climbed both routes, & I love Pipe Dreams. Please refer to the earlier guidebooks such as Richard Rossiter's or my "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". The climb ascends the face which has some nice pockets. I really like this part of the route.

    Yes, the crux is at 2nd bolt. I do prefer to avoid stemming to the mossy dihedral (around 8th bolt), because the face climbing up the seam is so cool. Stemming takes away from the sustained nature of this part of the climb. Yes, you can call it contrived if you like. The nearby dirty corner detracts from the quality, but it is obvious to me that it is off route.
    By Dave J
    Aug 23, 2015

    A key hold broke at the second bolt, making that move left much more difficult.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 26, 2017
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    I don't know what hold broke at the 2nd bolt. I was on this climb in Fall 2016. It seems like it's the same hard move with small holds that it always was. I have always climbed it just left of 2nd bolt. Perhaps you were trying it more to the right.
    By SCherry
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 1, 2017

    If Dracula is 12b, this thing is certainly harder...cool route, but it's a bit weird at the start. The finish is amazing and pumpy if you stay on the face.

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