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The Adamants
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Adamant- Turret- Austerity Traverse T 
Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 
East Peak of Gothics - "North East" Ridge T 
Houdini Needle(s) "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 
Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 
Mt Thor - East Ridge T 
N E Ridge of Pioneer T 
NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 
Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T 
South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 
W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall")  T 
West Buttress of the Horn T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c WI2+

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c WI2+ [details]
FA: members of Harvard Mountaineering club 1953
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Apr 6, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: [Photo#2] Pioneer Pass from below (1982)

Description 

More interesting than the normal snow-slog via Friendship Col, combines some ice and rock climbing.

From Fairy Meadow hike up towards Adamant-Austerity but bear left after getting around the lower end of the north ridge of Sentinel.

Continue towards Pioneer Pass [photo], cross bergshrund and climb high angle snow or ice above 'shrund to the pass itself.

Head right towards the east ridge (rock) [photo] and up this [photos] to snow summit and then on to the rock summit.

Descent- We descended the standard route to the col between Pioneer and the East Peak (of Gothics). [East Peak can easily be included in the itinerary with a moderately fast party.] From the col follow glacier back to Friendship Col and Fairy Meadow.

Location 

Pioneer Pass is the col between Sentinel and Pioneer.

Protection 

Small alpine rack, perhaps a couple-to-a-few of ice screws.
In 1982 we used a short-thin pition to protect the traverse on East Peak of Gothics.


Photos of Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#11] Mt Sir Sandford (1982) from summit (pro...
[Photo#11] Mt Sir Sandford (1982) from summit (pro...
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#10] Steve Latham on the summit (of East Pea...
[Photo#10] Steve Latham on the summit (of East Pea...
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#7] East Peak of Gothics from the East Ridge...
BETA PHOTO: [Photo#7] East Peak of Gothics from the East Ridge...
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#9]...onto the East Peak of Gothics
BETA PHOTO: [Photo#9]...onto the East Peak of Gothics
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#8] Looking down at the summit of Stickle fr...
BETA PHOTO: [Photo#8] Looking down at the summit of Stickle fr...
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#6] ...on the East Ridge
BETA PHOTO: [Photo#6] ...on the East Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#5] Approaching the rock of the East Ridge (...
BETA PHOTO: [Photo#5] Approaching the rock of the East Ridge (...
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo #4] Steve Latham nears the crest of the pas...
BETA PHOTO: [Photo #4] Steve Latham nears the crest of the pas...
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#3] Through the 'shrund
[Photo#3] Through the 'shrund
Rock Climbing Photo: [Photo#1] Early on the approach
BETA PHOTO: [Photo#1] Early on the approach

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