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(s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Pioneer Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C0

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C0 [details]
FA: 
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 31,708
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 27, 2006

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Bohn Street

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge.

Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors.

Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25 feet on bolts to a ledge with chains. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure.

Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move northward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge.

From here is a 4th class jaunt to the true summit. Be sure to take in the scenery and take pics for your REI catalog cover shot.

Descent:
Scramble or take a short rappel back to the top of the 3rd pitch. Another short single rope rap takes you back to the cave (these top 2 raps can be difficult to pull). From the cave you have several options:

1. Take the stunning and free hanging 2 full 60m rope rappel from the east edge of the cave to 3rd class below. This is the highlight of the route for many and allows you to also contemplate the insane difficulty of Just Do It. After this double rope rap you can circle back west to the base of the variation or continue up and over the top of the main buttress on the trail.

2. Take the tyrolean traverse back to the main buttress. (Requires that you fixed a second rope and rapped in from main buttress onto first pitch, trailed rope up to the cave, and know how to actually do a tyrolean (beyond the scope of this description).

3. Rap the route (not recommended but possible with single 60m)

Protection 

All anchors are fat bolts or chains.
-Single set of cams #.75-#3 camalot
-nuts optional
- Long slings and 4-5 quickdraws


Photos of Pioneer Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Monkeys on the Monkey
Monkeys on the Monkey
Rock Climbing Photo: On the bolt ladder.  Photo taken by Andrew Eck.
On the bolt ladder. Photo taken by Andrew Eck.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Slackline
The Slackline
Rock Climbing Photo: The Slackline
The Slackline
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephanie Balbin on the bolt ladder. This photo al...
Stephanie Balbin on the bolt ladder. This photo al...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tossing the rope from the Rap. Two 60M will get yo...
Tossing the rope from the Rap. Two 60M will get yo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt Ladder
Bolt Ladder
Rock Climbing Photo: The Slackline
The Slackline
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the Panic Point pitch
Looking down the Panic Point pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyrolean Traverse anchors in mouth cave
BETA PHOTO: Tyrolean Traverse anchors in mouth cave
Rock Climbing Photo: View out of the monkey's mouth as my partner finis...
View out of the monkey's mouth as my partner finis...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joanne coming up the third pitch of the Pioneer Ro...
Joanne coming up the third pitch of the Pioneer Ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the Bolt Ladder
Looking down on the Bolt Ladder
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Bennett speed solos the Pioneer Route
Scott Bennett speed solos the Pioneer Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the Bolt Ladder and Bohn Street
Looking down on the Bolt Ladder and Bohn Street
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the Monkey's mouth.
Entering the Monkey's mouth.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt Ladder
Bolt Ladder
Rock Climbing Photo: The Bolt Ladder
The Bolt Ladder
Rock Climbing Photo: The pitch up to Bohn Street
The pitch up to Bohn Street
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucas cleans and jugs the bolt ladder
Lucas cleans and jugs the bolt ladder
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the Monkey's Mouth
Entering the Monkey's Mouth
Rock Climbing Photo: The Belay in the Monkey's mouth.
The Belay in the Monkey's mouth.
Rock Climbing Photo: Panic Point
Panic Point
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephanie taking in the view.
Stephanie taking in the view.

Show All 27 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Pioneer Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 4, 2016
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 27, 2006

For Tyrolean Traverse:

-Fix rope at anchors on main buttress and do a single rope rappel into the notch.

-Continue up first pitch as Pioneer route on separate rope. When at the Monkey's mouth pull fixed rope tight and fix it also to the anchors in the mouth.

-First traverser can then use ascenders to jug back across gap on fixed line while being belayed from mouth. Be sure to put the loose end of the fixed line through the anchor in the mouth and tag it across.

-Once the first traverser has made the gap he/she pulls the tagged line taunt so that both its ends are fixed. This rope will now be only running through the anchor in the mouth but not fixed to it.

-Now the 2nd climber can do the traverse. Once they are to the main buttress the rope may be untied and pulled through the monkey mouth anchor cleanly.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 7, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0

Pitches 3 and 4 can easily be combined.

We ran into a spot of trouble on the rap off of this today. The wind blew one of our ropes over to the other side of the notch, where it became caught. I won't go into the details of our near-epic getting it out, but the end result was that I had to rap down the West side of the Monkey.
By Evan1984
Apr 20, 2010

Common advice is to french free the bolt ladder on quickdraws. This works fine, but is strenuous.

Make sure that both partners are able to do this or bring ascenders for the second.
By m-earle
From: USA
Jan 4, 2011

I believe the solo speed record for the pioneer route is currently 3m30sec. Time starts at the beginning of the fourth class, ends at the summit. GET IT!
By Aaron Hartig
Jan 5, 2011

was the time set by joel?
By m-earle
From: USA
Sep 13, 2011

Updated speed record- 3 minutes 25 seconds by Brad Gobright
By Richard Shore
Apr 22, 2013

Mostly good 3/8" bolts on the bolt ladder pitch. Some are homemade hangers, some odd (but fat!) bolts; I pushed two of the loose rawls back in their holes which were sticking out ~1". Not much to worry about if leading since there are TONS of bolts, but may be a cause for concern if you solo the route with daisies like I did. Don't pull outward!
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0

Nice work on the speed record! It took me about 4 minutes alone to lob my way up the bolt ladder Baguette-freeing on belay.
By Noah C
Oct 11, 2013

Both Summitpost and the new Falcon guide say a double rope is mandatory for rappel, but this page mentions a single rope rappel. Is it possible to rap with a single 60m or 70m?
By another Chad
Oct 12, 2013

"Both Summitpost and the new Falcon guide say a double rope is mandatory for rappel, but this page mentions a single rope rappel. Is it possible to rap with a single 60m or 70m?"

Rappelling from the mouth to Bohn Street seems like an exercise in frustration. Not to mention you'd annoy the group that would invariably be on the bolt ladder.

As Watts puts it: "Two ropes are mandatory on the descent." page 222


Chad
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
May 24, 2014

It appears as of 5/19/2014 that a bolt has blown on the bolt ladder just below the small roof. This turns what should be a totally Frenchable ladder into one requiring a sketchy aid move to clip. Bring aiders or a double length and single length runner (as well as your balance skills) for steps to make this reach.
By Kevin Peter
Jun 2, 2014

The missing bolt on the ladder can by bypassed by top stepping in aiders. Get your fifi in high and push hard. My waist was at or above the bolt and it was a long reach to the next one, but manageable. The french free beta may not be possible until the missing bolt is replaced.
By TomD
From: Medford, OR
Jul 19, 2014

Missing bolt on ladder has been replaced.
By Ryan Dirks
From: Eugene, OR
Jan 25, 2015

I would suggest changing the descent description on this. It is far, far better to rap from the boulder above the cave, not from the cave itself! There are currently no rap rings in east end of the cave, so a party ahead of us threaded their ropes through the bolt hangers. They had absolutely zero chance of getting their ropes back until I helped feed them through. In my opinion the only way of getting down from the cave is rapping the route at the west end. Rapping from the boulder above with 2 60 m ropes will easily get you to a final rap station at the slabs below.
By Alexanderswiderski
From: Portland
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0

If you aren't first in line on this route I might skip it or come back another time. The bolt ladder line gets painfully long.
By tsherry
From: Portland, OR
Oct 12, 2015

Advice on climbing the bolt ladder: "You'll figure it out by the end".
By Sam Dyer
Mar 18, 2016

Dear all Monkey Face climbers,

Yesterday (Thursday 3/18), my two ropes got caught at the top of the rappel out of the Monkey Face's "mouth". If anyone retrieves the rope, I would greatly appreciate it being returned to me. I would cover all the cost to you to get it to me (shipping, etc.), plus a little extra for your trouble. If you get them down, please contact Sam at 978-844-3432. Thanks!
By Andy Harrington
Apr 17, 2016

I wouldn't recommend rapping from the mouth cave. Two 60m ropes will reach the ground from the nose anchors. Rapping into the mouth and then back out of the mouth causes unnecessary headache.
By brian burke
From: the road
Jun 2, 2016

i'd second what andy says about rapping from the nose with two 60m ropes. i rapped from the nose with 1 60m and barely reached the slung block anchor near the top of p1. i was psyched to have knots in the end of the rope. getting into the mouth seemed like it would be a big pain.

also, I felt the description of where the climb starts was a bit ambiguous, so here's some beta for finding the climb:

from the misery ridge trail walking clockwise from asterisk pass: wind around the west side of the monkey face, passing a shack with rescue gear stashed. continue around the formation to the east face on the trail until reaching a fork in the trail. the right hand fork leads to a ledge at the base of some 4th class looking terrain beneath the east face. there's a single bolt on this ledge to belay from. the first pitch of the climb traverses right from here, passing one bolt on the traverse until moving up to the notch separating the main formation from the canyon wall.
By Sarah Lydecker
From: Hood River, OR
Sep 19, 2016

I'd read some reports of shorter climbers struggling up the bolt ladder and was a bit nervous to lead it, but at 5'5" I had no problem clipping the next bolt. I had one aider and two shoulder length slings girth hitched together as a second aider. I definitely appreciated the aider and used the top step a few times. If you're short and just using slings, be sure to tie them so you can have a high step.

Definitely go for the Monkey off my back variation out of the mouth. The exposure keeps it interesting.
By Michael Nill
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0

Climbed Labor day, the bolt at the step across blew, so I had to solo the last 20' of the route assuming there wasn't gear on the last pitch. Bring gear on the last pitch.
By pdxfixed
Oct 4, 2016

Climbed route on 10/1/16 and can confirm that the final pitch leading from the main rappel anchor to the top of the formation has no bolts. After climbing on top of the nose block, I stepped across and placed a single BD #1 cam before heading up to the final anchors.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2016

It's possible to rappel from the two bolt anchor on the right side of the floor of the Mouth (just below the beginning of the 'panic point pitch') back to the base of the route with a single 70m. The rope pull is hard, but doable and facilitates rapping with a single. As of last week, it was equipped with two quick links, but could use two more. If I make it back up there, I'll fix it up.