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Pioneer Peak

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Pioneer Peak Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 12,000'
Location: 43.0816, 77.1025 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 680
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Riley Jordan on Aug 15, 2013
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The South Face of Pioneer Peak.


Pioneer Peak currently has 7 multi-pitch traditional routes on the South face. I've heard that it stays dry year-round but with climbs starting at 12,000 ft., It would be very cold in the winter/early spring. These climbs don't see much traffic and the rock quality goes from solid to poor very quickly. Climb cautiously and always wear helmets.

Descend: to the ridge on the west (left) side of Pioneer and down the scree gully.

Special thanks to Kirill Belotserkovskiy and for all the beta.

Getting There 

You can take a bus or taxi to Medeu, ride the gondola to Shymbulak Ski Resort and hike from there, but it's going to take many hours. The best way to reach this area is to drive. Keep driving past Symbulak and the road will turn into a 4WD trail. Continue past the Tuyuk-Su Gates climbing area and past the dam (there is an abandoned building there). Once the road turns hard left and begins a steep climb, you'll want to park. Hike up the well-traveled ridge to Alpengrad (an alpine camping area) and past it for another 30 min. On the North side of the alpine lake and west of the glacier, you'll see the South face of Pioneer Peak.

Note: We typically park before the Tuyuk-Su Gates and hike to Alpengrad, camp, and climb the next day. But this leaves about a 3-4 hour approach from the car. Driving to the base of the ridge to Alpengrad will save you a significant amount of time and energy but the road gets bad so you'll need something with fairly high clearance.

Climbing Season

Weather station 13.8 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Pioneer Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the second belay station.

South Face Buttress 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  Asia : Kazakhstan : ... : Pioneer Peak
Bolts or pitons at belay ledges. The crux is said to be on the 4th pitch. Rock quality is good for this area. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Pioneer Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the South Face of Pioneer Peak.  Copyrig...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the South Face of Pioneer Peak. Copyrig...

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