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Jun 2, 2011
I have heard it is a good idea to add a few pins to your rack for winter mountaineering. How many and of what variety would yall recommend? This would be in addition to stoppers, screws, etc Chris90
From Unity, Maine
Joined May 30, 2010
0 points
Jun 2, 2011
I've never brought them mountaineering, but bring them religiously on mixed alpine routes. Anyway, I usually bring anywhere from 3-5 pins, depending on terrain/rock.... bugaboos and knifeblades being the mainstay, maybe 1-2 lost arrows, maybe a baby angle in place of the larger LA. A deftly swung pick can often weld a small stopper in a placement for an LA or baby angle, so maybe just bring a bugaboo or knifeblade, but again for general mountaineering I don't see the weight justification.

HTH.
Erik W
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 8, 2007
115 points
Jun 2, 2011
Same as above, but I don't bother with lost arrows. Too heavy. You can bash a nut into the same crevice that would fit a LA. Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
13 points
Jun 5, 2011
check out ushba's titaniums, generally carry 4-6; and 3 blades. Really ideal for those dime-thin seams. Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
545 points
Jun 5, 2011
Mark Nelson wrote:
check out ushba's titaniums, generally carry 4-6; and 3 blades. Really ideal for those dime-thin seams.


Mark, do you regularly climb with the Ushba pins? How reuseable are they? I used a couple ti pins about 15yrs ago (not Ushba) and those suckers were like the soft steel pins of yesteryear.... meaning they got welded in place easily, or only had a handful of placements in their lifespan because of the amount of abuse it took to get them out.
Erik W
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 8, 2007
115 points
Jun 5, 2011
NWAlpine has some russian ones. Not sure if they're from Ushba or not.

Titanium Pins and Screws

The disclaimer at the bottom is interesting.
Wyatt H
Joined Oct 29, 2010
3 points
Sep 5, 2011
that the most awesome disclaimer ever. long live the federation fat cow
From St. Paul, MN
Joined Nov 17, 2009
0 points


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