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Pinocchio 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 445', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J.P. Cadot & P. Desautels (1971)
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Jerome St-Michel on Jul 26, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Pinocchio is route number 3

This site is on the Parc des Grand Jardins SEPAQ MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route start in the obvious hollow.

Pitch 1: Establish yourself under the little roof and pass it on your left. Boulder up to the top of the broken hollow and reach the slab. Follow the crack system until you reach a fixed anchor, clip it and traverse left to another fixed anchor which is more convenient for belaying. (5.8)

Pitch 2: Follow the crack system above the belay to the vertical section, pass it to gain some moderate terrain. Keep following the crack system to another vertical section that heads slightly on your right hand side. Again, gain some more moderate terrain to a fixed archor. (5.8)

Pitch 3: At this point you meet with La DIrecte (de L’Ours). Right above the belay, head for the finger crack that seams to disappear. Climb it and gain the slab, clip the bolt and reach the last anchor. (5.6)

Descent: With two (2) 60 m rope you can rappel La DIrecte (de L’Ours).

Location 

When you reach the cliff from the approach trail, go around the arete that is on your left, and its the first route on your right.

Protection 

to Camalot #4. There are fixed anchors on the route.


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