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Pinnacle on North Ridge of Peak 11,158, West of Ruth Lake
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Pinnacle on North Ridge of Peak 11,158, "Standard Route," South Face T 

Pinnacle on North Ridge of Peak 11,158, "Standard Route," South Face 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: PeterSLenz on Aug 19, 2015

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Looking down the North Face

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Look West from Ruth Lake, and you will see a small pinnacle on the North Ridge of Peak 11,158. From the East side of the col between the Pinnacle and peak 11,158 ascend a wide crack to a ledge. Traverse West on the ledge and climb easily to the summit, which is a pile of detached blocks. DO NOT RAPPEL FROM THESE BLOCKS!!!

Descent 

Rappel from the ledge 20 feet BELOW the summit. Do not rappel off the loose summit blocks!

Protection 

Bring some large nuts, a few small cams and 20 feet of webbing for a rap anchor. A short rope is fine; the route is only about 50 feet high, and the climbing is easy.


Comments on Pinnacle on North Ridge of Peak 11,158, "Standard Route," South Face Add Comment
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By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 19, 2015

If you have any first ascent info, or if a name for this formation exists, please let me know, and I will edit the route description. Dave Kimura and I climbed it on 08/16/2015, and found some old tattered sling material sitting on (not wrapped around) a large block. We assume the pinnacle has had a previous ascent.

A 5.8 finger crack ascends part way up the East Face, and you can join the standard route (loose blocks) or continue straight up to the summit on marginal protection.
By Blake Summers
From: Park City, Utah
Aug 20, 2015

Rip told me he stood on top of that thing at some point. I don't remember him having a name for it. I've been calling it the 'Ruth Tooth' . I just climbed it for the first time 7/25/2015. Pretty cool feature. North Face goes too.
By JimG
Jun 27, 2017

Years ago I had heard this thing referred to as Jenga Tower. Can't remember who told me that. It has been climbed at least 10-15 years ago. A bit of a hike for not much climbing, but a pretty spot.

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