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Pinnacle Mountain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Umbrella T 
Feeding the Rat T 
Release the Kraken T 
What The Eft T 

Pinnacle Mountain Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.22134, -74.38248 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,951
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 11, 2014
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Christian on Black Lung, 5.10d at Pinnacle Mountai...

Description 

This cliff has a good concentration of difficult cracks, including one of the best cracks in the park, Release the Kraken. The rock is high-quality, similar to that of Lost Hunters Cliff.

The cliff is wide and has two distinct sections. On the left end is a peninsula of rock with cliffs on three sides (called The Peninsula). Behind it is a box canyon with three high-quality routes (What The Eft and two others). The approach trail comes here first.

Walk right on ledges along the base of the cliff to reach the right end (the Main Wall), which is 100'-tall, sheer and slightly overhanging. Release the Kraken is the obvious right-leaning crack that breaks the tallest part of the wall. Left of this is the distinctive left-facing corner Bent Hickory.

Getting There 

From Caroga Lake, go east on county route 112, then east on county route 125 to Pinnacle Road. Turn left (north) and follow Pinnacle Road to its end, and the trailhead. Follow the trail towards Chase Lake to the height of land. About 100' past a boulder on the right, turn left and bushwhack northeast through flat terrain for [roughly] 20 minutes. Eventually, go straight uphill to the cliff.

There is some flagging and a few cairns on the approach. In the winter of 2014, there was considerable deadfall in the forest, at times obscuring the once-well-defined approach trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.0 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pinnacle Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pinnacle Mountain:
Alien Umbrella   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Release the Kraken   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pinnacle Mountain

Featured Route For Pinnacle Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: "Release the Kraken", one of the most aw...

Release the Kraken 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Pinnacle Mountain
This is simply an amazing route. Great rock and interesting climbing throughout. Not a move harder than 5.11b, but it really feels like 5.12 because of the pump. The location can't be beat.Make an easy boulder move to gain the crack, then follow this through a thin section (crux) to easier climbing past a natural thread. Continue up to where the crack angles back left. At this point there are two options. The original ascent followed this left-leaning crack up, then switched to a smaller crack t...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of Pinnacle Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the main wall is this beautiful overhanging cra...
On the main wall is this beautiful overhanging cra...

Comments on Pinnacle Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Johnson
Oct 20, 2014
One of the best cliffs I have been to in the Southern Adirondacks region. Another true Adirondack adventure. The appeal of this cliff starts with the longish approach (40-50min) off trail traveling, following flagging tape to this remote cliff. The cliff has a high concentration of 5.11 cracks ranging from fingers to hands, some short and stout and others are slightly overhanging endurance tests. Most routes have fixed anchors.
By tetrault
From: CT
Jul 10, 2015
Some more info about the approach:

About 10 minutes into Chase Lake Trail, you will pass over a ~4 foot wide wooden bridge crossing a stream.

At the 6th red "Foot Trail" marker (only counting the ones that are facing you) after the bridge, which will be on your right, make a 90 degree left turn into the woods at a ~3 foot high splintered stump.

As noted in the description, follow pink/orange flagging tape wrapped around trees. As of 7/31/15, the climbers trail is very well marked and easy to follow.
By Peter Young
May 8, 2017
Is there reasonable access to the top for building top rope anchors?
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 9, 2017
Peter Young: You can, but you have to work a little. For the routes at the Peninsula, walk/bushwhack left in front of the outer face of the peninsula, then back right to a ledge above the routes. A short rappel will get you to an anchor. For the Main Face, walk right into the chimney, make a couple 5th class moves, then walk to the top. The Kraken tree is accessible by walking. The other routes will require a rappel to safely reach an anchor.

So, yes, "reasonable", but not trivial. Definitely not as easy as, say, Lost T; more on par with Lost Hunters or Chatiemac.

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