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Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: summer, early fall
Page Views: 4,695
Submitted By: burlap submariner on Nov 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Top of pitch two.


This is a very direct variant to the pinnacle rock climb, it follows the arete direct from the first chimney pitch of pinnacle ridge, the route finding is simple follow the ridge/arete proper and a good amount of fixed pins on the way. The crux comes at a tricky roof to a step around the arete (extremely exposed, you can see pinnacle waterfall at about 250' down) to a vertical seam protected by brassies and a ring pin.


the pinnacle, huntington ravine. follow the ridge/arete proper to the top and walk off down huntington ravine or traverse over to lions head trail.


single rack to a number 4 camalot, 1 set of nuts and micro nuts.

Photos of Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fairy Tale Traverse.
Fairy Tale Traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch four
Crux pitch four
Rock Climbing Photo: pulling out of the crux, pitch four.
pulling out of the crux, pitch four.
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch two.
pitch two.
Rock Climbing Photo: starting the crux pitch four.
starting the crux pitch four.

Comments on Pinnacle Direct (Rock Climb) Add Comment
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By Emmett Lyman
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 22, 2016

Sounds like we may have climbed this a bit differently. Above the arete moves you call the crux we crossed the small ledge to the left and continued to follow 3 pins up a tricky corner with slopey holds. It felt a fair bit harder than arete moves below. Just above that we escaped left and ended up below a large boulder with some nasty old tat and a sketchy rock leaning on its right side. We cleaned up the tat (new black webbing and older but still good green cord) and proceeded up above the boulder. There, and maybe 20 ft right of the standard Pinancle route, we found a steep face with good jugs and a pin about 10 feet up. This was the crux for us - a pretty dynamic move on jugs with bad/cut feet and felt like the 9+ rating. That brought us to the big slopey ledge, which we crossed up and slightly right to the 2 pin anchor below the fairy tale traverse.

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