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Unsorted Routes:

Pinky and the Brain 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: (TR) George Zelenz 1990, FL: Todd Gordon, Grant Hiskes & Suzette Olsen
Page Views: 1,710
Submitted By: Locker on Sep 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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5.10b4me just past the crux (the step across)


It is located on the southeast side of the Isle In The Sky formation (around and left of the main northeast face) on a block on the lower right side (to the right of and down from Hidden Corridor). You'll see a tall, well-featured face which is the route.

The climbing is up large plates and edges, and while the rock is mostly solid it hasn't seen much traffic and is still cleaning up some.


10 bolts, bolted anchor/rap. Some long slings are helpful. 60m rope needed.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 4, 2015
By David Evans
Sep 15, 2003

This route is rated in Todd's "5.8 deserves more respect" 5.8 rating. More like 5.9 or 10a. Similar to the "5.8's" at Outer Mongolia.
By Steven Powers
Sep 15, 2003

Respectfully, i think you are very, very wrong about this climbs grade and the one's in mongolia, ive done this climb a number of times and there is no hint of 5.9 or 10a. what about all the dave evans sandbags around jtree? this climb is great a great lead for the begining 5.8 leader, super safe and kinda long.
By Randy
Sep 16, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route was called "George's TR" in Alan Bartlett's Pinto Basin guide (it was a top rope route; FA: George Zelenz, 90). It was later bolted and led by: Todd Gordon, Grant Hiskes & Suzette Olsen. Originally rated 5.10, it is probably solid 5.9. 10 bolts, 1 fixed pin(?) and 2 bolt anchor. So DE's comments about the rating are probably right on.

2 out of 5
By Steven Powers
Sep 16, 2003

okay to end the argument respectfully, Randy i notice that when you say the route is 5.9 you use the word "probably" i take this to mean you have not done the route, if you have im sorry but if you call that solid 5.9 there are a lot of grades you need to fix in your guide. if you want to go do the route ill go out there with you any time, you posted all the other info Todd gave you so why dont you belive him when he says it's 5.8?
By Steve Powell
Sep 21, 2003

just did this route. I feel this route is 5.8 if you climb the crack atthe start. If you stick to the face it may go 5.9. the tricky step across at the fourth bolt is probably 5.8, although I felt there was a move up higher that was actually harder
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 23, 2003

For what it's worth, my original TR went a bit right of the bolted route. Two different routes?

Who cares.

It's all 5.0 till you fall.

George Zelenz
By Gary Kleiger
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fair to poor rock quality. Over-bolted IMHO.
By David Evans
Mar 30, 2004

5.10b4me, ratings are intended to give an on-site leader an idea how hard something is. Following or top roping is easier than leading (although a route with that much pro isn't much different for leader or follower). Also repeating a route makes it easier. I had just noticed that the picture showed you on a tr. Had you just led it on site and called it 5.8? If so your rating stands and I apoligize.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 15, 2004

I have led this route well over ten times and have yet to find it to be more than 5.8. Many factors are involved in ratings. Height,weight,experience etc... being but a few. The day I "Onsighted" this I felt it was 5.8. I have heard and read others feel it is harder. I see that Randy feels that DE's rating it harder appears to be respected. Interesting to me, I consider all of the climbers that rate it higher than I do better and more accomplished than myself in the climbing world. Maybe the climb fits my style, height,weight better? Whatever the case, give it a shot.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Oct 9, 2011

We climbed this today and Andrew led On Sight. I followed on TR and I did not see a 5.9 move on there let alone 5.8 but then again what do I know all I climb is Josh sandbags. All the moves are solid except the crux which may go 5.9 height dependent. Other than that nice work Todd. All the bolts are exactly where you want them. If this was an old top rope then why is there a bunch of old bolt holes and the BD piton in there.
By Kat S
From: Long Beach, CA
Nov 14, 2013

You'll spend a lot of time on your toes for this one. Holds are a bit sketchy due to loose rock. I advise pulling down on the patina flakes rather than out, as one member of our party did take a good chunk off by pulling away from the face. Belay from the left to avoid rock fall and/or wear a helmet. Anchors are up and to the left. Be prepared for cringe-inducing rope drag.

I agree that it's a pretty solid 5.9 assuming you lead/start up the face and not the crack to the left. Overall not a bad climb, but I didn't enjoy it enough to make me want to do it again or take people there in the future.
By SteveMarshall
May 4, 2015

thought this was a great way to end a day on isles in the sky. fun moves on a long, easily-approached sport route. the beta is to put an extended draw on the bolt by the crux flake so the rope rides over it instead of under.

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