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Pinks for friction slab
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Aug 29, 2016
I'm looking for a new shoe for granite slab, routes in the area have a lot of friction smearing. However there are also pitches that the angles kicks up and need some thinner edging ability. I want a bit more support than say mocs or mythos offer (neither of which fit my foot all that well anyway).

My current all around shoe is a comfortably sized katana lace, and I've got up a smooth 10a sandstone crux in them, but the flexing my toe up trying to get the ball of my foot pressed in was tiring. I actually ended up pumping out the muscle on the front of my shin from trying to pull my big toe up against the slight downturn.

TC pros are out, had them, stiffer than I want and the kill the bone spur on my heel.
Techno X was fine smearing, but the blunt/rounded toe just didn't feel precise on thin edges.
Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
393 points
Aug 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Wolf's Head in the Cirque
You're talking about Index, right? Pinks are great at Index! Really nice for levitation moves on indiscernable microfeatures, e.g. the upper part of 24-Hour Buccaneer, boulder problem at the start of Narrow Arrow Direct, etc. Also work well on steeper, edgier climbs, e.g. Golden Road. I have them in size 7, Moccs in size 7.5, and street/approach shoes anywhere from 8-9.5 (Sportiva 42.5). Toes are definitely not flat, so thin hand cracks can be painful. I would go for a 7.5 if I could justify getting another pair of shoes for long routes, but right now I just take them off at every belay. Todd Anderson
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 6, 2011
119 points
Aug 29, 2016
Actually I was looking for Darrington, low angle smearing.

I've been pretty happy with the katanas for my low grades at Index, where the crazy levitation smears on the invisible features haven't come in to play yet :)

I did manage to struggle hump my way up spineless (on TR) with them, but I was able to smedge some pretty large crystals with them.
Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
393 points
Aug 29, 2016
Pinks do OK on friction slab but my favorite shoe for that is a pair of broken in Blancos (new ones tend to be too stiff). They were discountinued a few years back but supposedly 5.10 is bringing them back. Emil Briggs
Joined Sep 30, 2013
133 points
Aug 29, 2016
I'm not sure it's their intended use, but my Tenaya Tarifas, sized comfortably, are quite good for slab, very sensitive and still edge well. Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
328 points
Aug 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Pinks are great. They do edge extremely well (on par with Katanas) and smear well. Although they're not as sensitive as a Moccasym, they are plenty sticky and not downturned. I bet a worn in pink would be perfect for friction slabs, although mine haven't gotten there yet. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Aug 29, 2016
The new Quantums can friction and edge well. john bald
Joined Jun 12, 2006
32 points
Aug 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Chunky Chimbly" at sunset
Pinks are amazing at smearing on granite slabs of any angle, mine are broken in now and I'm quite impressed with their stick. They also are great at edging and are a solid crack shoe. Also, they are very comfy for all day use- had a pair of for 8 hours and 40 minutes and with loosening them at belay stations, I never noticed any problem Nolan Huther
From Clarkson University
Joined Dec 26, 2014
650 points
Aug 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
They're a pain in the ass to get on, though. My only complaint. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Aug 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Chunky Chimbly" at sunset
Ted Pinson wrote:
They're a pain in the ass to get on, though. My only complaint.


This is true... Perhaps a side effect of their comfort.
Nolan Huther
From Clarkson University
Joined Dec 26, 2014
650 points
Aug 29, 2016
Hi Nick

I live very near and climb in Darrington, and have used Velcro boreal jokers for hundreds of pitches over many years up to 5.11. Quick to kick off at belays, and seem to fit me well.
I'm sure there are other modern options but I'll keep buying them until no longer made.

Mh
M Hanna
Joined Apr 28, 2015
5 points
Aug 30, 2016
Nolan Huther wrote:
Also, they are very comfy for all day use- had a pair of for 8 hours and 40 minutes and with loosening them at belay stations, I never noticed any problem


What did you go with compared to your street shoe size? That would be a great fit and give me a better option for the bigger alpine days also. I wore the Katanas on a longer alpine day that was mostly simul climbing, that slight down turn was no longer nice by hour 5!
Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
393 points
Aug 30, 2016
M Hanna wrote:
Hi Nick I live very near and climb in Darrington, and have used Velcro boreal jokers for hundreds of pitches over many years up to 5.11. Quick to kick off at belays, and seem to fit me well. I'm sure there are other modern options but I'll keep buying them until no longer made. Mh


Mark, I'm amazed that you've done all that in Jokers! I though people complained about boreal's rubber, do you resole them with another rubber when they wear down?
Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
393 points
Aug 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Chunky Chimbly" at sunset
Nick Drake wrote:
What did you go with compared to your street shoe size? That would be a great fit and give me a better option for the bigger alpine days also. I wore the Katanas on a longer alpine day that was mostly simul climbing, that slight down turn was no longer nice by hour 5!


I bought them at my true street shoe size (9) and I'm satisfied. Half size down wouldn't be terrible for performance, but street shoe sizing should be comfortable. I dont wear socks with climbing shoes FWIW though, so consider that.
Nolan Huther
From Clarkson University
Joined Dec 26, 2014
650 points
Aug 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
I find they run a bit small compared to say La Sportiva. My street shoe size is 12 1/2 - 13 and I got the Pinks in 12 (46) for a toes slightly curled, performance fit. This exact size is my flat toe comfort fit for TC Pros. I can actually wear the Pinks for quite a while even with the toes curled, although they were a bit painful jamming in the gym cracks at least. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Aug 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Greyrock summit
I can echo what Ted is saying. I love my pinks. I always seem to love slab routes that my partners hate, I guess it's the shoes.

They are a bit painful on gym cracks if you jam the whole way (im a noob crack climber so it may just be me). I wear a size 14 street shoe and my size 14 pinks fit just a smidge tight when I first put them on.

The only thing I dont like is how long they take to lace up and put on, however, if you are wearing them all day the laces are perfect.
Travis Provin
From Boulder CO
Joined Oct 1, 2015
79 points


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