REI Community
b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Back Door Betty T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Big Chimney T 
Blackout, The T 
Cilley Dicken' T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Denise T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Dog Bite City T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
His Name is called The Word of God. T 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Radcliffe Descent T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unknown T 
Word of Mouth T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pink Laurel 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ted & Ann Church, 1955
Page Views: 5,501
Submitted By: JSH on Jun 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Doug Morse leading P1.


Pink Laurel is a sunny and warm route, great for winter days. It uses quite a variety of climbing techniques to ascend the obvious left-facing orange and pink corner, just to the right of Classic.

P1: Start just right of Classic, and climb up the offwidthy ramp on the right to a stance at the bottom of a chimney. Find a way up (crux) into the main corner system, then follow the corner up through the steep but relatively easy chimney sections above, to the big ledge. 5.9, 80 ft.

You can build a belay in the corner, or traverse ~25 feet left to belay at the shared bolt anchor.

P2: Climb through a long flake system located on the right, up the corner, past another roof to an arete, and head to the trees.

P1 and P2 can be run together, but consider that the crux is quite low; between noise from the road and a set-back belay, it's unlikely that you'll hear your follower if s/he has trouble.

Descend by rappel over Classic, or walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.


Standard rack. Gear is pumpy but plentiful through the crux, and you won't need anything large.

Photos of Pink Laurel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working his way out of the initial alcove.
Working his way out of the initial alcove.
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Morse at the beginning of the difficulties.
Doug Morse at the beginning of the difficulties.
Rock Climbing Photo: In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch of Pink Laurel.
The second pitch of Pink Laurel.
Rock Climbing Photo: TJ working his way up
TJ working his way up
Rock Climbing Photo: Gear placing on Pink Laurel. Taken from in front o...
BETA PHOTO: Gear placing on Pink Laurel. Taken from in front o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Morgan in the crux.
Dave Morgan in the crux.

Comments on Pink Laurel Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2016
Sep 2, 2007

(beta alert >>) hand jam(s) help a lot.
By Risi
Oct 15, 2007

Don't miss the nice and steep second pitch! There is only one 5.9 move on a short traverse to the left below the second roof. Long slings or double ropes are helpful.
By T Roper
Apr 21, 2008

damn, my book said 5.8
seemed pretty hard for a 5.8
safe and fun route
By slim
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

another route that, if you are new to the gunks, will make you say "are you sure about this?", but it all comes together, brilliantly. you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a classic route around here.
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009

I don't quite agree that this is a classic - at least at the moment, it is rather mossy and slimy. Maybe in a drier year it's a classic.
By slim
Jul 2, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

yeah, the rock is pretty smooth and slippery. if it is wet or mossy, i can imagine it being a bit un-nerving. you gotta admit though, for 5.8 it packs a bit of "are you sure this is gonna go at 5.8?.".
By David Stowe
Jul 16, 2009

Packs quite a punch for a 5.8 because it is a solid 5.9.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 14, 2009

The crux is very polished. It makes the moves out of the chimney that much harder. ONce you are through the crux, the climbing eases off significantly. I am not a fan of the polished rock...

I just did it again today (9/22/12) and I still hate this climb. I am just not a fan. I don't think I stem enough and I just burl through the moves. I did enjoy P2(v).
By John Peterson
Sep 14, 2009

I think humidity adds a full grade to this climb. It seemed easy on a cool, crisp day and nearly impossible during summer heat.
By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Such a great climb, too bad for all the greased/polished footholds.
The alcove exit on pitch 1 is easily protected with a couple BD #.75 cams in the roof of the alcove.
By Jackson vermeulen
Oct 26, 2014

There's currently a fixed anchor at the top of pitch 2. Eliminates the need to traverse over to the anchor for Jackie and Classic
By Joel Ryan
From: New York, New York
Oct 26, 2016

Fixed anchor is crap and should be cut. Absolute tat connecting unequalized pieces when the Jackie bolted rappel is a 15 foot ledge walk away. It serves no purpose, and I would have cut it myself if it weren't getting dark.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About