||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 45'
|Original: ||M7 [details]|
|FA: ||Rob Griz, Brad Grohusky|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||873|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Jan 15, 2011|
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BETA PHOTO: Close to the chains. BETA - Torque the glory hol...
Yet another great addition to the Vail area. Short and sweet, yet it'll keep you reachin' a little higher. The first bolt is intentionally set high (to stick clip), yet if you know the holds, it can be (has been) led ground-up (just don't blow it). The crux is between the first 2 bolts, and the climbing has excellent moves in a natural seam that runs to the top of the cliff. You gotta try it, great Stein pulls, cams, and shallow pods.
The 4 spacious bolts are exactly where you need them. There are anchors on top for an easy escape. Enjoy! A 5th bolt was added on 11/11 between the upper two bolts, due to ledge-fall potential. The upper crack seam is well dug out, careful camming and thin footwork will help you reach the anchor.
Looking at the Staircase
, look left. The route runs up the beautiful, steep face, beginning in right-facing corner/open book that is visible 10m left of the ice. For kicks and clarity, working left of the Staircase
you have Stemcicle (aka Boxed in)
, a Grade 3 ice flow with a static rope top anchor, the Log Jammin'
(mixed trad), then the Pink Funhouse. Stick-clip the first bolt (borrow my clipstick in the red litter sled, bring a squid/tape). Lower off the pair of bomber top anchors.
Moving through the crux on "Pink Fun House&qu...
Pink Funhouse, the mixed line to the left of the i...