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Pingora

Select Route:
Cirque of the Towers Traverse T 
East Face, Left Side Cracks T 
East Ledges T 
Northeast Face T 
South Buttress T 
Southerner's, The T 
Southwest Face Right T 
Stealing Thunder T 
Triple Cracks T 

Pingora Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,884'
Location: 42.7789, -109.226 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 55,988
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 24, 2006  with updates from Bill Lawry
Forecast:
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Description 

The most sought-after summit in the Cirque of the Towers, along with Wolf's Head. This is probably due to its listing in 50 Classic Climbs. Home of the classic Northeast Face route and several other fun moderates.

Summitpost.org has excellent information on Pingora.

Getting There 

People with recent experience climbing on Pingora, please feel free to add information on approaches, descents, etc.

Descents 

Per Bill Lawry:

I am aware of two full descents: either i) down climb East Ledges with a rap or two or ii) use the better descent near the route South Buttress. The latter is the faster, most direct way of the two and is described below. Also described below is a rap route that gets one towards Tiger Tower and Wolf's Head (e.g., used as part of linking up Pingora with the other two towers).

Southerly Descent To South Shoulder: This descent can be done in four raps with a 60 meter rope if comfortable with some low-fifth-class down climbing (5.6?) - watch rope ends! A 70 meter rope avoids the down climbing. And the last two raps can be combined with double 60 meter ropes - not sure if double 50's will reach. Note that the lower part of this rap descent deviates to skier's right of South Buttress route.

Find the anchor at the top of the "K" cracks of South Buttress route. Rap ~29 meters to the huge ledge and then down climb low fifth class on climber's left for ~3 meters to the second rap station (5.6 down climb?); a 70 meter rope will take one all the way to the smaller ledge adjacent to the second rap anchor.

Thread second rap anchor and toss skier's left. Rap a little left and then straight down ~31 meters to a smaller but still very ample ledge having the third rap anchor. At the last part and with careful attention to rope ends, my 60 meter rope allowed a much shorter and easier down-climb - one or two 3rd or 4th class moves.

Thread rope through third rap anchor and toss straight down. Rap ~26 meters to anchor with fixed nuts and with little on which to stand. Then rap again to ample horizontal ledge which is a total of ~50 meters below the third rap anchor (i.e., these last two raps can be combined in one double rope rap).

Hike the ample horizontal ledge to skier's left back to the south shoulder of Pingora (i.e., to the vicinity of the starts of the routes South Buttress and East Ledges). There is a short 2nd / 3rd class ~horizontal section just before reaching the south shoulder.

Descent Towards Tiger Tower: Anchor webbing may need replacement. My 60 meter rope worked.

To start, locate the huge cleft that splits the west side of Pingora's summit. On the summit and south of that huge cleft, find a short dihedral to down climb / down lead and continue for roughly 80 feet (?) to reach the first rap anchor. After that, the first rap anchor is from chock stones inside a much smaller and independent cleft than the cleft on the summit. The first rap immediately goes around a corner to skier's right: funky with rope drag on the pull. Continue rapping ~mostly straight down. The last rap ends on north side of the notch between Pingora and Tiger Tower, and may land one in snow. A 70 meter rope probably keeps this to four raps; again, we had a 60 and rapped five times.

A scramble up and over to the south side of the notch gets one into the sun and onto good rock heading up Tiger Tower.

Climbing Season



Weather station 22.7 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pingora

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pingora:
East Ledges   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'   
Cirque of the Towers Traverse   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade V   
East Face, Left Side Cracks   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   
South Buttress   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'   
Northeast Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200'   
Southwest Face Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pingora

Featured Route For Pingora
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet 5.8 crack section

South Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WY : Wind River Range : ... : Pingora
A nice little route with two really nice pitches. This description is for the 5.8 variation, but the route goes at 5.6 also.P1: After the 4th class scramble to the start, climb a nice r-facing corner system for a long pitch (maybe some simul climbing is necessary) to a little perch at the foot of a clean wall with a crack that splits. (5.7, 200ft)P2: For the 5.6 variation head left to a dihedral. For the 5.8 variation, head straight up the fine crack (wide to start, then hand/finger) and at t...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Pingora Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning fog clearing over Pingora
Morning fog clearing over Pingora
Rock Climbing Photo: Two clowns on the summit of Pingora, 1980. Photo b...
Two clowns on the summit of Pingora, 1980. Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora in Cirque of the Towers
Pingora in Cirque of the Towers
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora from the base of Mt. Mitchell 9/6/2013
Pingora from the base of Mt. Mitchell 9/6/2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora
Pingora
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob leading the traverse on the first pitch of the...
Rob leading the traverse on the first pitch of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot of several parties on Pingora.  I believe w...
A shot of several parties on Pingora. I believe w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Large crew heading down the south shoulder
Large crew heading down the south shoulder
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora from the Arrowhead Pass
Pingora from the Arrowhead Pass
Rock Climbing Photo: Last of four single rope raps.  Finishes on grassy...
BETA PHOTO: Last of four single rope raps. Finishes on grassy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sherman on Pingora summit after new route, circa 1...
Sherman on Pingora summit after new route, circa 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora reflection.
Pingora reflection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning approach to to k-cracks with molly
Early morning approach to to k-cracks with molly
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap stations/descent from the summit of Pingora.  ...
BETA PHOTO: Rap stations/descent from the summit of Pingora. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora, Northeast Face 2009 (Shortly before a sno...
Pingora, Northeast Face 2009 (Shortly before a sno...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora
Pingora
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Mitchell (left) and Warbonnet (right) framing ...
Mt. Mitchell (left) and Warbonnet (right) framing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Rock
Great Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora
Pingora
Rock Climbing Photo: K Cracks
BETA PHOTO: K Cracks
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach/Descent beta photo.  Follows trail and ob...
BETA PHOTO: Approach/Descent beta photo. Follows trail and ob...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora - Super Sturgeon Moon (August 2015)
Pingora - Super Sturgeon Moon (August 2015)
Rock Climbing Photo: Second of four raps from S. Buttress.  Easy with s...
BETA PHOTO: Second of four raps from S. Buttress. Easy with s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pingora. Photo by Blitzo.
Pingora. Photo by Blitzo.

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Comments on Pingora Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
May 8, 2009
A couple of long rappels down the South Buttress Route is the best way off Pingora.