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Piney Creek Canyon

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Second Wind Wall 
Shipyard, The 
Trailside Wall 

Piney Creek Canyon Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 5,627'
Location: 44.55748, -106.93542 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,426
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 14, 2007  with updates from Taylor Spiegelberg
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The walls across the creek from the Trailside Wall...

Description 

This area has matured into the premier sport crag of the Eastern Big Horns for those seeking the 5.10-5.12 grade range. It couples easy access and a plethora of excellent routes with a wide variety of styles. The Trailside Wall gets great evening shade to escape summertime heat, and offers a pleasant, creek-side ambiance. Parts of the Second Wind Wall (Refrigerator Chimney alcove) and the Shipyard offer decent morning shade (until about 1pm) throughout the summer.

There are walls lining both sides of the creek, with the only developed walls being adjacent to the trail (and up the hill) just past the diversion dam. The Trailside Wall is the first crag you come to, and is only a relatively flat 10 minute walk from the car. The Second Wind Wall is about 5 minutes up the hill above Trailside. The Shipyard is further up the hill on a good path and is roughly 30 minutes from the car.

CAMPING INFO!

Currently, there are limited options in Story for camping. There is no FS or BLM campground or land thats easy to camp on. Wagon Box RV Park has campsites and a kind owner who is very welcoming to climbers!! It's expensive compared to other areas like Ten Sleep, but this may change.

WAGON BOX RV PARK

Campsites by the river $20 (25% discount for climbers!!)
Flush Toilets
Call ahead or stop in
108 N Piney Road
307-683-2261
Harry, the owner, is a nice guy and longtime local and would love to see some climbers passing through.

Getting There 

Driving Directions:
Drive to the small mountain town of Story, which is about equidistant from both Sheridan and Buffalo. Set your odometer here and follow these directions carefully; it's a bit confusing navigating through Story for the first time.
0 miles: Chuckwagon gas station in Story. Turn right onto 194.
.6 miles: The junction with 340 on the right (large wooden signboard). Continue straight in 194.
2.6 miles: There is a park/playground on the right. 194 makes a 90 degree turn around the park before continuing a short distance to the Fish Hatchery. Instead of following 194 around the 90 degree turn, continue straight ahead onto Thorne Rider Road (graded dirt), which is marked by the green sign-Youth Camp.
3.3 miles: Thorne Rider Road ends in a gate with the sign-Authorized Vehicles Only. Park here.
Approach Directions: Walk past the gate and continue up the relatively flat roadbed until the Forest Service boundary is reached after about 1/2 mile. Shortly after the boundary, the trail passes between the creek on the left and the cliffs on the right. The first routes are found about 100m past the diversion dam on the creek. Hiking time is approximately 10 minutes from your car.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.8 miles from here

75 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',10],['5.10',21],['5.11',19],['5.12',19],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Piney Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Piney Creek Canyon:
Addled Ambitions   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   Trailside Wall
Chosspector's Choice Nugs   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 95'   Trailside Wall
Super Dihedral   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Second Wind Wall
The Hauffice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Shipyard : 7. BAR-Muda Triangle
Vice Gripped   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Second Wind Wall
Hera   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Huldra   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 65'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Prospects of Paid Time Off   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Trailside Wall
Sulphur queen   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Too Tall for Twomey   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Sea Sprite   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
One for the Doctor   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 75'   Second Wind Wall
Second Wind   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Second Wind Wall
Shipyard Showers   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Star Ariel   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Little Nemo   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall
Cyclops   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 75'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Star tiger   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 75'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Super Streak   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Second Wind Wall
The Bermuda Triangle   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   The Shipyard : 4. Bermuda Triangle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Piney Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Piney Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin on Sulphur Queen

Sulphur queen 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : ... : 4. Bermuda Triangle
An awesome route that starts in the center left of the wall and takes the most aesthetic line to the steepest part of the wall where it is stopped short. Clip the anchors and traverse left to finish on the Bermuda Triangle for full value and a 12- tick....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Comments on Piney Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Aug 3, 2010
Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns is finally on the shelves! It provides comprehensive beta for Piney Creek Canyon and nine other major crags of Sheridan/Buffalo area. Available at retailers throughout the area like: Rendezvous Trading Co., Backcountry Bicycles, Bighorn Mountain Sports, Sports Lure. PM me if you want a copy mailed.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Mar 25, 2012
This area should be on the short list for any regional climbers. I climbed on the Trailside Wall yesterday for the first time in 8 years and had an absolute blast. Bowman did a great job bolting, cleaning, and picking choice lines.
By Jason Todd
From: Cody, WY
Jun 4, 2015
Nice addition of the hooks on the well travelled routes! Thanks much for your work Trevor.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
Jan 21, 2016
Love this area, been here 6 or 7 times to climb and always have a good time! Climbs are easy to get to and the scenery is great.
By Mike Madsen
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Mar 17, 2016
Not that I plan to anytime soon. Just curious what are the bolting ethics in Wyoming? Curious is all. Thanks!
By Jason Todd
From: Cody, WY
Mar 17, 2016
For the eastern Bighorns, most local developers have been putting in 3/8 x 3 1/2" 5 piece bolts for pro with 1/2" x long bolts for anchors. Camouflaged hangers have been standard in this area. Rap with power is the norm unless it is easier to do ground up.
By Mike Madsen
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Apr 8, 2016
cool! thanks for the response. Looks like a good area!

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