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Pine Mountain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Contact T 
Hank Chinos T 
It’s a Pinkham Thing T 
Old Broad's Birthday Bash T 
Old Route Direct T 
Pope on a Rope T 

Pine Mountain  Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,000'
Location: 44.36374, -71.21279 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,447
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: Pine Mtn Slab - taken on Rt 16 a mile or two north...

Description 

An old-time slab/cliff (first climbed in the 1930's with evidence of further climbing in the late 1960's-mid-70's) that has seen some recent activity, mostly by Matt and Kathy Barker who researched the early climb(s) with the Boston AMC. Helping them was/is Ben Smith and the Chinos' Jon Garlough and Hank Tracy.

The cliff/slab presents a interesting alternative to slabs like Whitehorse and even Table and Rainbow due to its unusual character of slabs with a serious number of small overlaps, and at least one route completely on pegmatite.

Bring a light standard rack (we didn't use anything larger than a #1 (red) although we brought a #2 (gold) & a #3, "alpine draws" (i.e. long-ish) are useful, the routes wander a bit. Expect to find a bolt or two if needed but we aren't talking "sport climbs" here. Nuts seemed especially useful on the pegmatite. We survived with a single 70m rope, but used the trees on far right to descend from the top ( 3 single rope raps).


Fairly easy approach: 0.9 mi. on private dirt road, 0.1 mile on trail and about 0.3 mi bushwhack

Currently that 0.3 mi bushwhack, while not bad in terms of the degree of "brush-crashing", is still pretty obscure. (More on this in "Getting There".) With additional visits this may become more clear.

The climbs currently are: (L to R order)
Pope on a Rope 5.7
It's a Pinkham Thing 5.8
Old Route Direct 5.7
Contact 5.6
Hank Chinos 5.6

Getting There 

Take the Dolly Copp road from Rt 16 north of Pinkham Notch past the entrances to both the campground and Barns Field (group camping) whereupon it turns to dirt. Continue a few miles to the height-of-land and a parking lot on the left and a private road on the right (East). Park here. [From the north and west, pick up the northern end of the Dolly Copp road off of Rt2 near Randolph, NH.]

Walk (or, I guess, biking is OK, as the sign says only "No Cars") the 0.9 mile to the Ledges Trail. Take this about 0.1 mile to a large boulder on the right with a dead birch tree trunk in front of it. [This is the 2nd or 3rd boulder you pass, but is the largest...perhaps in the near future there'll be a cairn on it or nearby.]

Leave the trail here and contour around at the same level. (altimeter / altitude watch and/or GPS currently helpful) for about 0.3 mile that will feel like twice that. [With stopping, checking location, etc, figure 40-50 minutes your first time "in".] If you drop too low you might completely miss the cliff, so if anything "error high". You will cross a small but distinct drainage about 1/3 of the way to the slab, and then a larger (wider) but less distinct drainage about 2/3rds of the way there. Generally, the "path" seems reasonably clear as far as the first drainage [cuttings and very occasional green tape], and also reasonably clear from the 2nd drainage to the cliff (once you find it), but the territory between the drainages seems to be "no man's land".

One key: if, shortly after passing the 2nd drainage, you hit talus DROP DOWN to go around the talus.

To add confusion, the last time I was therte (Aug 2016) a line of pink surveyer's tape branches off from the hiking trail a bit lower than the boulder shown in the photo. mmmm??

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pine Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pine Mountain :
Hank Chinos   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Contact   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   
Old Route Direct   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
It’s a Pinkham Thing   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pine Mountain

Featured Route For Pine Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of It’s a Pinkham Thing.

It’s a Pinkham Thing 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  New Hampshire : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Pine Mountain
[From Barker] Submitted by Ron Birk, edited with permission by R Hall START: About 50-60 ft left of the toe of the slab (i.e.50-60 ft Left of the start of "Old Route Direct") at a 10-12-inch diameter tree that forms "double trunks" about 6 ft off the ground. If you stand back a few feet from the tree you should be able to see 2 or 3 of the bolts. P1. Climb slab 10-12 ft and then pull the overlap (gear) at the base and climb up to a sta...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Pine Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the summit.
View from the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pine Mt summit
Pine Mt summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view left from higher up with Pinkham Notc...
Another view left from higher up with Pinkham Notc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock in a tree at the base of the cliff.
Rock in a tree at the base of the cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Side view of the left side of the cliff.
Side view of the left side of the cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of bushwack, with tiny cairn. Hike 0.3 miles...
BETA PHOTO: Start of bushwack, with tiny cairn. Hike 0.3 miles...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bushwack marker after 0.1 miles and where you turn...
BETA PHOTO: Bushwack marker after 0.1 miles and where you turn...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the parking lot, hike 0.9 mile on dirt road to ...
BETA PHOTO: At the parking lot, hike 0.9 mile on dirt road to ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Ledge Tr
BETA PHOTO: Start of Ledge Tr
Rock Climbing Photo: "Toe" of the slab, nearly at the START o...
BETA PHOTO: "Toe" of the slab, nearly at the START o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Look Ma, we found it! RW arrives at the far left e...
BETA PHOTO: Look Ma, we found it! RW arrives at the far left e...

Comments on Pine Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By beach
From: Portland, ME
Jul 23, 2016
This cliff is definitely worth checking out, interesting and different climbing and a little bit of route finding make it super fun. The hike in isn't too bad.
By Dhane Knakkergaard
From: Intervale, NH
May 21, 2017
Super cruiser climbing! I know its been said, but great alt option to Whitehorse. Route finding is certainly the best part about climbing here, just wandering through the lichen, fairly abundant pro, with the mighty Mt. Wash over your shoulder.If you havent checked this place out yet, do it.

As a side note, I did find a few places to throw a #2 in. I would bring one if you plan on doing Its a Pinkham Thing

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