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Pine Creek

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Pine Creek Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Brad "Stonyman" Killough, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: KHall on Jul 27, 2009
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Crystal Corner pitch of the Cave Route

Description 

Pine Creek is the first large wall on the left you will see when entering the main gorge area. The wall faces Northwest and gets afternoon sun. The 200'+ white sandstone cliff has several multi-pitch routes. Many are possible in a downpour due to the sheer steepness and the huge roofs on the wall.

Pine Creek is for the truly adventurous. The approach is very steep (up hill both ways) and involves crossing a class V creek. The trail is "faint" at best. Excellent cross-country skills are a must. The reward is some of the finest rock quality and adventure climbing in the south.

The climbing at Pine Creek is not for the novice leader. The routes are steep and committing. Most if not all routes require some aid climbing. With ledge fall potential a real possibility. For the advanced climber, Pine Creek offers some of the finest climbing in the gorge.

Watch out for rattlesnakes.

Getting There 

From Oneida, TN Follow TN297W to Verdun RD. Make a left-south onto Verdun RD. After approx. 1/2 mile make a right onto the O&W Railbed. Follow the railbed for approx. 6 1/2 miles. A small pull off for Pine Creek is on the left. It is recommended that you recon the approach from the road.

First, walk back down the railbed until you are about even with wall across the valley. Look for a left and right facing corner system that leads to a large cave about 150' up the wall. Orient yourself and take off!

Next, drop straight down the gully to a sandy area with large boulders by the creek. You may or may not find a faint trail. Just follow the path of least resistance. Work your way across the creek. Be careful crossing the class IV-V creek! You will be wading in the creek, hopping/climbing boulders, and the terrain can be treacherous at best. DO NOT ATTEMPT AT HIGH WATER LEVELS!! Once across regain you bearing and march straight up the other side to the base of the cliff and find a "good" climbers trail.

The cliff is broken up by two main ledge systems-East/West-and the prominent corners to the cave. Both ledges are accessible by a 75' 4th class scramble. Good Luck!


Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 7.0 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Pine Creek

Captain Hook 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ PG13  TN : Big South Fork : Pine Creek
Start on the climbers left/east edge of the face. Scramble up obvious short ramp to the base of a short crack/corner and build belay. P1-From atop the ramp head up a short corner then trend left up and out face on thin holds and dubious protection to a good horizontal. Continue left over a bulge to gain the main East ledge system. Build belay at tree. P2-Start left of the tree. Climb up through a series of overlapping flakes on thin gear to a small ledge in a left facing corner. Build bela...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

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Rock Climbing Photo: This is the same image that is in the Dixie Cragge...
This is the same image that is in the Dixie Cragge...

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