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Mossy Ledges Area
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,955
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Historical pitons found on the route.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a good quality line that goes up to the top of the second tier of cliffs. A bunch of old pitons found in this corner indicate that this route has some history to it.

Climb a white crack to a right-facing dihedral capped by a roof with an offwidth crack. Continue up the wide crack to a large ledge. (This pitch is not really up to the quality of the climbing above; a more aesthetic start might be to climb Chocolate Sunday to reach the big ledge.)

At the far right end of the large ledge, climb the corner system and belay in a small alcove with some fixed pins. The next pitch continues up the crack, past a small roof, a short offwidth, and a few more fixed pitons. Eventually climb a featured chimney to the top.

Descend by walking left (east) to a wide broken area. On the eastern edge of the broken area, a rappel from a pine tree leads down a featured slab to the ledges above Soylent Green Jeans. There is a rappel tree here also, but it is easier to scramble (skier's right) down a short 4th class section, coming out at the big pine tree beneath Soylent Green Jeans.


Begin on the right edge of the Hanging Block Buttress, immediately to the left of a large pine tree.


Std rack

Photos of Pincushion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the varnished corner high on the rout...
Looking down the varnished corner high on the rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: The opening overhang on pitch 3.
The opening overhang on pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the second pitch of Pincushion.
Starting the second pitch of Pincushion.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the overhang on the first pitch.
Just above the overhang on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The line of Pincushion.
BETA PHOTO: The line of Pincushion.

Comments on Pincushion Add Comment
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By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Don't be discouraged by the mossy/junky looking start to the third pitch. You can work around the vegetation without disturbing it, or you.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 11, 2014

We started up Chocolate Sunday and joined the upper pitches. Really fun climbing; if the rock quality were just a bit better, this would be a four-star classic.
By rockratrei
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 8, 2015

There is another variation that maybe the original direct line. Start around to the right of the hanging block and left of Numic Warrior in the corner. P1: Climb the corner and exit into a slot/squeeze chimney 20 ft below the roof to a nic flat ledge (5.5) 100 ft. P2: Climb the corner and exit through a slot to a blocky ledge with a huge roof wander up to the right heading for the bush and back into the original line (5.7) 80 ft.
By Ryan Malarky
From: Denver, CO
Oct 7, 2016

As of Oct. 6, 2016, the webbing on the pin anchor at the top of the second pitch, in the small alcove, is in dire need of replacement. The current webbing is bleached and pretty crispy. Bring some extra cord or webbing. You may also want to have some extra cord/webbing for the first rap station. We left some cord, but another piece would be good.
By michael meoli
May 31, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

3rd pitch Off-width was to much for me. Squeeze from 4' to 2', No Pro unless you are thin and can squeeze into the back of feature, Smooth walls, No edges, Dangerous fall. We backed off. Left a nut and # .3 Camolot to lower off. (Booty)
Also left Cordelette and Biner on Historic Pitons for rappeling. (More Booty)
I'll admit O W are not my thing but 5.8 climbers beware. I'd give this climb a R rating.
By Leslie McG
5 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Um, I don;t see how anyone calling themselves a 10b trad leader would ever back off this climb??? This is NOT an R climb, although in typical Larry style is definitely a thoughtful PG route with just enough gear to make you content but not enough to make you happy. The offwidth section is literally 2 moves for a 5'3" climber and reminded me of a harder but way shorter pitch 2 of Tunnel Vision. I do think the climbing is solid 5.8 for all of pitch 3, but no offwidth skills are needed at any point on the pitch. Super fun climb, just wish it was longer!

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