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Pinche Guey 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,514
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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  • Description 

    Boulder up to the same jug system you'd grab to start Magie Noire, then head left and straight up the blankish face to the base of the hanging roof. Blocky, pinchy, Rifle-like moves get you through this, then a jug run to the anchors, up over the lip of the wall.

    It overhangs 10 feet in 45, with sustained moves -- anomalous for Boulder Canyon and a good pump. If you fall off, maybe you need to "pinche" little harder.

    Location 

    This is one route right of El Gallito, or one route left of Magie Noire. It is the sixth route in from the left.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to 2-bolt anchors with links. Thanks to Bruno for having installed the anchors and letting me finish the route.


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    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 13, 2008
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Probably the best route at the crag. A right kneebar at the crux (getting into the overhanging blocky rock) makes the crux straight forward and enjoyable, without the kneebar/kneepad (jessery, cheating, whatever) the crux is painful and hard relying on powerful pinching. Great route and nice addition to the crag....
    By jarthur
    From: Westminster, CO
    Sep 9, 2008

    I saw the possibility of getting a kneebar under the roof, but opted out with a series of underclings, pinches, and key foot sequences to a dynamic move over the roof instead. The tricky sequence getting to the 3rd bolt is just awesome. It helps to put your dancing shoes on up to the roof. Good eye Matt for picking out the best line at the crag.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Mar 23, 2012

    Hmm, I remembered to use a kneebar, but used my left...which worked fine. Sometimes too little knowledge is a good thing. Felt more like 12a with the kneebar, but I don't want to be one of those downrating guys.
    Regardless, quite fun and worthwhile.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 11, 2012
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    We mistakenly got on this thinking it was the 11b/c.
    I looked at the knee bar in thin tights and thought better of not doing it. I pinched low and slapped over the roof second try. I don't think this is harder than 11+/12-. I defer to the harder side of that in light of other opinions, but it is not terribly hard. I don't usually get mid-12s that easily when I'm going casual climbing after work. I think the pinch is just bad beta.
    By Pinklebear
    Jun 30, 2012

    The kneebar does bring the grade down a bit (or a fair bit) at the crux; also the holds are much cleaner and less gritty thanks to traffic than when we put the route up four years ago. 12a/b for the onsight; 12a once you know it? I dunno...something like that. Not as hard as Warlock Pinche.
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Aug 17, 2013
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    This is a surprisingly good route at a relatively obscure crag. The moves over the roof are super fun and a little cryptic at first. I didn't find any knee-bars in the roof, but I suck at that. I did a huge power move off the undercling to snag the jug at the lip. Without the trickery, I thought this route felt about 12b/c.
    By Greg Miller
    Jan 27, 2014

    3 of the bolt placements crossload your biners. Beware.
    By D@n Morta
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 16, 2014
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Broke off the little finger divot at the slab crux. Still goes and not much harder. Fun route.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Apr 1, 2015
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Definitely the best route on the crag & worth repeating. As for the grade, when I first climbed this route in Fall 2008, it was originally rated .12c. I felt it was overrated & not as hard as "Caught In The Web" or other .12c climbs. However, calling it .12a is a sandbag compared to "Free Fall", "Warf Factor", or "Furious Howard Brown" (all .12a). I have always felt it was solid .12b, if not .12b/c. I've redpointed it at least once a year since 2008 & have yet to do it first try hanging the draws. I have always send it second or third try with the draws in place. Most 5.12s I have repeated on the first try. It seems harder than "Meteor Rhoadblock" (.12a/b) or "Tell Tale Heart"(.12b), at least that's my opinion. There are hard moves from the 2nd bolt to past the 5th bolt. The kneebar doesn't fit me at the 4th bolt crux, so I use an intermediate pinch & then dyno to the jug. A very thuggish route.

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