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Pinch Fest 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Page Views: 9,126
Submitted By: Sean Bradley on Jul 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (142)
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Ashley Gann on Pinchfest. Photo by Kyle McFarland...


It goes up to a two bolt anchor a few feet below the large roof. Follow pinches up the wall with good clips. The sequence is hard to follow 3/4 of the way up.


The route goes right up the center of the Ruckman Cave almost directly ahead of the trail.


6 bolts to a two bolt LO.

Photos of Pinch Fest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Winter - Pinch Fest 5.12b.
Pete Winter - Pinch Fest 5.12b.
Rock Climbing Photo: Soaking up the rest.
Soaking up the rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Winter on Pinch Fest - 5.12b.
Pete Winter on Pinch Fest - 5.12b.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam entering the crux.
Sam entering the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike pulling the crux.
Mike pulling the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sasha Cherry - Pinch Fest 5.12b.
Sasha Cherry - Pinch Fest 5.12b.

Comments on Pinch Fest Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2016
By Anonymous Coward
May 1, 2004

A great route. Originally named Pump Action by Bret and Stuart Ruckman
By Aleksander Tkach
May 1, 2005

the last clip is not easy!!! better to take the big whip than to hang the draw.
By Peggy Sayer
Jun 22, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Matt - if you are replacing the last bolt - thanks so much. this is one of my favorite routes in Rifle and we [regularly] use this as one of our warm ups.
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I always enjoy this route. I think the last clip adds to the route. Isn't half the fun of climbing in the challenge? Just think of clipping this bolt as the crux.
By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Great route, super "primer" for harder routes in the park...
By Jeremy H
May 17, 2009

A large chunk of rock fell off this last week. The piece that is missing was used as a foot hold in the crux. The route still goes at 12b, but it is a little trickier for your feet.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Classic route. Intriguing, unique movement that will leave you smiling all the way.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Nov 5, 2013

This route is disgustingly polished and greasy, I was climbing this route when it was 35 degrees in the shade and it was still the slickest thing I've ever touched. The best jug on the route I can barely hold without pumping out due to the greasy rock. It's like climbing up an ice route without crampons or axes. Major props to anyone who can send this.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 5, 2013

Like most limestone after a lot of use; makes one dream about granite.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 10, 2014

The remaining old bolts on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA. A few of the quicklinks were updated and were provided by C.A.M.P..

The crux bolt was replaced a few years ago with a stainless 5 piece. The old holes were reused except for the last bolt which was spinning and nothing I had could get it to come out.

By drewhouser
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

To counter the sparrow, I climbed this thing in the sun at 70 degrees. Are the holds polished? Yes. Are they huge and awesome anyways? Yes. This route is so good. Don't let the sparrow scare you away as it earns an easy 3.49 stars. If only it were longer. If you climb anywhere near the grade, you won't regret climbing this thing. A drop knee makes the last clip a cinch!
By Aleks Zebastian
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2016

Climbing friend,

Are you pinching on the funny stuff?

It is like an ice route, yes, ho ho! ha ha! There also may be fresh aids-blood in the rest of hand jamben-style, so be sure you are not having fresh open wounds on your hands!

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