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Love Mongers for the Win S 
Pinch and Roll S 
Pull the Mirrors Off Your Cadillac (So it Doesn't Look Like You Look Back) S 

Pinch and Roll 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jason Halladay
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jun 17, 2015

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Description 

This one's for the fellas. A "diving board" cobble step-up gets you up to a couple of good pockets and the first clip. Follow a side pull or two to more great pockets past three more bolts to the anchors just below the big, curling roof. Stop at the first anchors for 5.9 fun on quality, good rock.

For more climbing (albeit potentially risky due to rock quality), pull the roof (5.10+) clipping one more bolt to reach the anchors shared with Crestone Puddin'. This roof has some lesser quality rock so tread lightly and use caution.

Location 

Just right of Crestone Puddin' starting near a small tree.

Protection 

4 bolts to a two bolt anchors with biners below the roof. One more bolt past the first anchors to reach the anchors of Crestone Puddin' makes for a 5.10+ roof pull on lesser quality rock. Use discretion if climbing beyond the anchors of Pinch and Roll and through this roof.

Pinch and Roll! 

Everyday when I get in my car
It's a Honda, you know
I sit on down but I don't get too far
You wanna know why?
'Cuz I've gotta reach down
And scratch an itch
In an area, an area
That's so sensitive
So I do a

Pinch and Roll
(Everybody do a) Pinch and Roll
(If you're itchy do a) Pinch and Roll
(We don't scratch, we do a) Pinch and Roll

So if you've got a problem
You know what to do
Whether you're watching TV
Or sniffing airplane glue
Which we don't do
Now the girls don't know
But us guys we all know
How to do a little dance
We call the Pinch and Roll
And we do the

Pick it up, pick it up, pick it up
Pinch and roll, pinch and roll
Everybody does a pinch and roll, pinch and roll
(If your in school you do a) pinch and roll, pinch and roll
(don't be a fool, you do a) pinch and roll, pinch and roll
Everybody do the pinch and roll

I pinch and roll all day
I pinch and roll all night
And if I got an itch, the pinch and roll is right
To relive my little icth, we got to pinch and roll it now, I've got to fix it now
We pinch...oh yea
A ragamuffin, a blueberry muffin, my dog is named muffin, I'll butter your muffin.
Baby, maybe.
And now it's time, to pick it up
To pick it up, pick it up, pick it up
Pick it up, pick it up, pick it up!


Now if you've got a rash
Or a minor glitch (hey, hey, hey, hey)
Stick your hands on down
And give yourself a big pinch (ah!)
Then you roll it around
Around and round it goes
But after you're done
Make sure you know where it goes
Not in your nose!


Comments on Pinch and Roll Add Comment
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By John Gustafson 1
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Jun 21, 2015

Climbing at LRW June 19, 2015, and witnessed a large (maybe half a wheelbarrow?) load of rocks come down with a Whump! from this climb. I was belaying several climbs to the left, but it was an attention-grabbing moment.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 22, 2015

Whoa! Spontaneous rock fall...scary. It sounds like no one was hurt then? I hope not. That roof feature above the anchors has some dubious rock all along it. I cleaned the rock up and a left of the anchors but if folks stray too far left or right it'll be loose.