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Pince Sans Rire
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Pince Sans Rire 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,370
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The line starts out slabby and gets steadily steep...

Description 

A stellar tuffa line.

Start up the delicate slab and over a small low roof. Continue up the lower angle face to the base of the steeper wall above. Grab the bottom of the tuffa features and look up, try not to wet your pants. Pinch your way up the right tuffa line and when the left line is big enough to move to make the transfer. Follow this collonette up the wall to a break and some jugs. Attack the curtain of tuffas above, so many choices but the are not all good. Fight your way through this to the anchors at the top.

Location 

This route follows the most obvious line in the middle of the wall. The name is also written at the base of the route. It starts right of a raised platform that the previous routes start off of.

Protection 

Bolts to a bolted anchor.


Photos of Pince Sans Rire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stellar tufa-action near the top.
Stellar tufa-action near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Racing the shade up Pince Sans Rire.
Racing the shade up Pince Sans Rire.

Comments on Pince Sans Rire Add Comment
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By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Jul 2, 2010

The best 7b+ I did in Rodellar. The damn slab at the bottom sucks though.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 16, 2014

This climb is phenomenal. No moves are terribly cruxy, the real difficulty comes from the ridiculous pump. However, the cruxes do come a bit past the bolts, which are around 8 ft apart or so for most of the route. Adds some mental stimulation to the fun!

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