|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Dempsey Medford, Carl Resh - 1985|
|Submitted By:||saxfiend on Jan 5, 2007|
|Comments on Pin Chimney||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Newnan. Ga
Oct 18, 2012
|Must do if good trad leads are your thing. Have heard many way that route offers minimal protection in for about the first 25' but i had no difficulty. Move up right of the roof then traverse left until under obvious chimney. Once into chimney the start of it there are not many options for pro except the old Piton wedged in the crack at the start. Piton seems good enough then once you push past the start of the chimney there are more options for pro. But hands down one of the best routes i have done at sand rock.|
By Cres Simpson
From: Cambridge, MA
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Awesome trad route and my favorite trad lead at SR (though I haven't built up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb yet). I think I actually started halfway between the direct start and the true start -- it's slightly overhung but on huge jugs and protects extremely well with a slung horn about 10' off the deck. From there it's smooth sailing!
I did not clip the fixed pin in the chimney as it looked pretty manky, but there's ample pro, albeit finicky. I had some large tricams with me (grey and green, iirc) that worked well. The pro is definitely there, you just have to find it!
Overall an outstanding climb and one of SR's moderate trad gems.