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Pilot Mountain

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Beach, The 
Big Arete 
Big Gully  
Black Rain Wall 
Campsite Boulders 
Copper Top 
Devil in the White House 
Foreign Trade Zone 
Foreign Trade Zone : far east 
Grindstone Mini Wall Boulders 
Little Amphitheater 
Nuts and Bolts 
Parking Lot 
Pool Hall 
Three Bears 
Trailside boulders 
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A singletrack trail that climbs to the popular High Rocks outcropping overlooking Wytheville. Near Wytheville, Virginia
From MP's sister site:

Pilot Mountain Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,400'
Location: 36.3402, -80.4808 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 112,862
Administrators: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 8, 2007

93° | 73°

93° | 74°

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South-facing quartzite cliffs with plenty of shade. Mostly toproping with bolts/trees/rocks for anchors at the top (bring webbing/slings), but there is also sport/trad/mix available. Climbs vary from slab to overhanging with several roofs. Rock quality varies.

Can get busy on the weekends, especially around Three Bears and Middle Walls, and hot in the summer. Find the well-maintained trail in the SW corner of the parking lot and follow down through woods. Climbing area will be to your left with approach times from 2-10 minutes. Rappel down from the top or follow trail down to Three Bears gully (climber approved) to access the base of the cliff.

Climbers must register at the box in the parking lot for each vehicle in their party.

Getting There 

Take I-40 to business I-40 in Winston Salem. From Winston Salem take Hwy. 52 north for about 20 minutes. Follow signs for Pilot Mountain State Park and follow road up to the top parking lot.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.4 miles from here

100 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',51],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pilot Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pilot Mountain:
Dirty Rotten Scoundrel   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Little Amphitheater
Body Surfin'   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Beach
Pole Dancing   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Amphitheater
Crackin' Up   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Amphitheater
Mild Mannered Secretary   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Amphitheater
Howdy Dude   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Three Bears
Grandpa's Belay   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Little Amphitheater
Vegomatic   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   Parking Lot
Pilot Error aka Right Chicken Bone   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Parking Lot
Chicken Bone   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   Parking Lot
Turkey Shoot   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Amphitheater
Black Rain   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Black Rain Wall
Pump Street   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   Amphitheater
Mama Bear   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Three Bears
Papa Bear   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Three Bears
Erocktica   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Little Amphitheater
Devil in the White House   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Devil in the White House
The Herculean Test   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Devil in the White House
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 60'   Amphitheater
Overhang Hangover   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Amphitheater
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pilot Mountain

Featured Route For Pilot Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Philippi leading Blind Prophet (12c). Photo ...

Blind Prophet 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13  North Carolina : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater
Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet). Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits. This route is one of the best at Pilot....[more]   Browse More Classics in North Carolina

Photos of Pilot Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A.K.A START THE CAR 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: Area Map at the climbers registration post.
BETA PHOTO: Area Map at the climbers registration post.
Rock Climbing Photo: DIRTY ROTTEN SCOUNDREL 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: PEE BREAK 5.6
Rock Climbing Photo: PAPA BEAR 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: GOLDILOCKS 5.5
Rock Climbing Photo: Soft rock!
Soft rock!
Rock Climbing Photo: At Pilot on Blind Prophet?
At Pilot on Blind Prophet?

Comments on Pilot Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 4, 2008
Pilot Mountain is not covered in the Selected Climbs in North Carolina guidebook, and the old Kelly guidebook is out of print. Fortunately, Jeff Dillon has created a new, free guidebook for Pilot Mountain. It is now available for download at the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site.
By EricD
Mar 21, 2008
If you're going to Pilot from Charlotte (or south or west of Statesville), the following route will get you there in the same amount of time without having to drive through Winston-Salem.

Go north on I-77 to exit 85 (268 Bypass). Make a right and follow this for 3 miles to a stop sign. Go left at the stop onto Rte. 268. Follow this for 20 miles to U.S. 52. Go south on U.S. 52 for about 4 miles to the Pilot Mountain exit.

I'm not a fan of driving through cities and found this to be a nice alternative. It takes about 5 minutes longer, but the speed limit is 55 mph. and you get to see some rural Cackalacky.
By Crisco Jackass
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 24, 2010
FYI - CCC hosted download of the guide has moved here.
By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 3, 2011
The pocket guide is offered free, with an alternative one-page selection, at the Park office when it's open. The second edition has an improved map and notices of two route closures and closing of Big Gully to all entry. There is also which is always open, with fuller descriptions and photos of anchors, bolts, walls, climbing, and boulders
By Joey Daoud
From: Miami Beach, FL
May 17, 2016
Here's an updated link to the guidebook from Carolina Climbers' Coalition.
By Steve Lineberry
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 14, 2016
I've fixed the link in the guidebook section and also added Erica Lineberry's new guidebook for pilot. Thanks.

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