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Pillow Roof 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on May 31, 2008

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A fun, well-protected lead up to one of the biggest roofs at Mentmore. The climb swings around and climbs the right edge of the roof to the top. The movement is nice, with a neat diversity of unusual holds all just where you want them. The crux is certainly between the 1st and 2nd bolts; the rest of the route is mid-5.10 at most. A good first 5.11a lead. However, the rock at the top, especially under the roof, is really loose and sandy. Climb carefully, don't knock rocks onto your belayer or rip holds off...and don't fall onto the 5th bolt. It looks very suspect. Bring looong slings for the anchor to extend the rope over the lip for lowering or toproping.


Near the left end of the Slab Wall, underneath a large, prominent roof. This is the leftmost route before reaching the deep chimney that separates the Slab Wall from the Jabba the Hut area.


7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Rap off (maybe), top out and walk off the backside towards the railroad tracks, or lower off and collect your anchor slings later. Only lower off if you have LONG slings that extend the anchor beyond the lip of the roof. There are already big grooves worn in the rock from running ropes over the lip.

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