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3. Albion
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dipper TR 
Cecret Saddle TR 
Extrovert TR 
Extrovert Upper TR 
Glory Gulch TR 
Little Dipper TR 
Pillar East TR 
Pillar Left TR 
Pillar Right T,TR 
Sidewinder TR 
So Long TR 

Pillar Right 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Albion sector: A - Extrovert Upper B - Little Dipp...

Description 

Fun moves up the arete and sharp left-facing corner on the right (east) side of the vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the Albion sector's main base mid-platform - (the sharp left-facing corner is two or three feet left from the arete).
Finish up onto the Albion sector's main mid-platform with a thoughtful slab sequence.

Variation (5.11): Just left of the main route, instead climb up the center of the South face, staying right of the crack system for the "Pillar Left" route. The sharp left-facing corner and the crack on its inside may be used, but not the face to the right of the sharp left-facing corner (because that's the main "Pillar Right" route). Pull the roof which is at the top of the sharp left-facing corner (now at last using a handhold on Right side) and step over onto obvious horizontal foothold on Right side at the level of the roof. Finish on the main route.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Below the main Albion base mid-platform, Right (east) side of the South wall of the pillar - (the wall which is aimed perpendicular to the direction of the main Albion slab above the platform which forms the top of the pillar -- faces toward the Recreation center and New Jersey).
See the routes overview photo for Albion sector.

For Top-Roping can lower in from the usual top anchor for Albion which is about 30 feet above the main base platform (possibly with the belayer standing on the platform instead of at the bottom of the route).

Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the Albion base platform left (west) across the Baldy sector's main base platform, then up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.

Or shorter but more slippery and less fun, could try scrambling difficulty 4th class) down northeast - east - southeast down from the Albion base platform, down around the east side of the pillar to reach its bottom.

Protection 

Top-Roping: Can set up with the usual top anchor for routes of the Albion sector -- but need a directional to keep the climber from swinging left on a fall. Could try a #1 Camalot (red) in a horizontal crack by the right (east) side of the face about ten feet below the top.
. (This directional piece could also be used for top-roping the Pillar Left route, adding a normal shoulder-length sling to the protection piece).

Leading: Very likely this route has been led successfully, but the quality of the trad protection is unknown.


Photos of Pillar Right Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...
BETA PHOTO: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...

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