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Pillar of Society 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 5,974
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Pillar of Society is the first route you come to, as it is right at the top of the trail from the campground to the Lower Buttress. Look for the giant 3' diameter cobble.


first route at the top of the trail, 10' left of the Surrealistic Pillar direct.


sport bolted. There is usually a stick near the base to stick clip the first bolt.

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The goodness
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Rock Climbing Photo: Profile of Pillar of Society
Profile of Pillar of Society

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 27, 2017
By T_jones
From: Salt Lake
Aug 20, 2010

This route has brilliant moves and follows an unbelievable line of dikes. Don't let the small crimp crux down low discourage you from doing the deluxe upper half of this route
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 15, 2010

You can easily set a TR by climbing over from the anchors of Surrealistic Pillar Direct. Perhaps 15-20 feet of 5.4 dikes.

Great climb!
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
May 13, 2012

How in the heck do you start this thing?! I spent five minutes just trying to get off the ground! The handholds are there, but the feet start a few feet off the ground...
By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The area's best face climb. I stick clipped the first bolt due to the blank start -- probably hard V4 getting to the mega-knob.
By JaredV
From: Reno, nv
Jul 8, 2014

Any one have any beta for the section right after the big side pull jug after the 4th bolt?
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Jul 14, 2014

The initial boulder problem is deffinetely in the V4 range maybe a tad harder or easier. If you can reach that first dikey rail off the start it eliminates that boulder problem. However all the way to the 4th bolt it felt like sustained hardness on tiny tiny stuff (12a). Cant really see how its still 12a adding on that boulder problem at the beginning to be honest. But I didn't send it so I have no room to complain
By mpech
Sep 11, 2014

apparently someone has recently chipped the start??
By MisterCattell Cattell
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
May 29, 2015

No chips at the start! The first move is definitely there! Just jump for it, grab the crimp and HANG ON! After watching my buddy go for an RP yesterday (with no success, unfortunately), I was inspired to give it a shot. The bottom really isn't too bad, the first move, albeit hard, is only a few feet off the ground, once you find yourself on the huge gray thing, you'd really have to blow it to fall. Clip is easily within reach and a huge rest, which is grand because the climbing is quite sustained after that. I definitely recommend giving this thing a shot.
By scalparm
From: Vienna, Austria
Aug 23, 2016

Can someone give more beta on this so-called 5.4 traverse to the anchors from the Surrealistic Direct anchors? I've scoped it out a couple times after doing SP Direct and it looks sketchy as balls! A long, unprotected traverse on dirty, chossy-looking rock.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Sep 4, 2016

Phenomenal route. This is a must do.
By Justin Skaare
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2017

ClIPPING BETA: You can one handed stick clip the first bolt while hanging to the huge grey blob if you're using a branch as we were. Highly recommended, the mantle is no gimme, and falling would be ankle breaking or worse.

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