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Village Wall
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Pillage the Village 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Offenbacher, Zach Fleicher
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Refuge Jared on Sep 11, 2016

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Description 

WARNING: Some routes on this wall are just long enough to lower your partner with a 60 meter rope. Mind your positioning as belayer (stand close to the wall) and TIE A STOPPER KNOT to avoid the end of the rope slipping through the belay device and dropping your partner as they lower to the bottom.

The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.

Juggy vertical start with plenty of hold options. Then "hike" over somewhat dirty low angle section to dead vertical 5.8+ crux with solid holds--nicely protected and a fun lead. Good technique will make it feel easier; thrutching can make it a bit awkward or exhausting. Finish at mussy hooks. Lower off.

Location 

There are two routes on the immediately accessible section of Village Wall. This is the route on the climber's Left, immediately Right of a large boulder.

Protection 

Well protected. 9 bolts to mussy hooks at anchor.


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