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Aqua Velvet S 
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Four Twenty T 
Mashed Potatoes S 
Pile of BS (Bat Shit) T 
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Retro'd Hardman S 
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Pile of BS (Bat Shit) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?? If not yet climbed, Kevin Buckingham 16 Jun 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: krbuckingham on Jun 16, 2012

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Description 

Climb the chimney/Gully system right of Aqua Velvet. Pretty obvious line. If you come searching for guano, this is the place. A nice heaping serving meets you about 1/3 of the way up. BEWARE of loose rock - Belayer should have a helmet, climber should use caution.

At the top, there is a nice chockstone to sling if you want to rap straight down. Option two is to CAREFULLY avoide kicking down rock and traverse to Aqua Velvet anchors and belay your second up (With directional protection). Drag was surprisingly not bad (with plenty of runners).

Decent climb - some crack, some face, some chimney. My motivation was being in a party of 3, having plenty of trad gear, and wanting to do some lead soloing.

I wouldn't be surprised if this had been climbed before, but now we know for sure :)

Again - LOOSE ROCK

Location 

Right of Aqua Velvet, in the chimney/gulley.

Protection 

Nuts and cams, a few decent finger-hand size placements. No need to BD 5 or 6, but found a 4 useful toward the start. Beware of placements in loose rock.


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