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Pika Paradise 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Olsen, Ruckman, Ruckman '81
Page Views: 4,470
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Aug 29, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Pete just past the crux on Pika's Paradise.


One fantastic pitch of climbing makes this route very worth doing. Approach using Pete's staircase. Instead of linking Pete's in one long pitch, stop at the half-way belay tree. From here, trend right to avoid the steep rock below the Lowe route. One long pitch gets you to easy walking ground along the big ledge system.

Traverse the ledge until near its' end (600 feet or so). Look for a continuous right facing dihedral that is about 120 feet long. This dihedral is what makes the approach worth while. Climb up a gorgeous continuous dihedral for a long pitch to an anchor around a slung chockstone (3 star pitch). Then, a fairly long wandering pitch (5.3ish) gets you to the top.

Descent: Contour below the ridge crest back to the saddle. Descend Collins highway to the Pete's staircase rappels. Another option is to rap (one 60m rope) back to the ledge system.


Standard rack. I placed everything from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot. This could easily be led without anything bigger than hand sized gear.

Photos of Pika Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking across the cirque
looking across the cirque
Rock Climbing Photo: Pika's Paradise dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Pika's Paradise dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of the entire route
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the entire route
Rock Climbing Photo: Laura working her way up Pika Paradise.
Laura working her way up Pika Paradise.
Rock Climbing Photo: late summer at the base
late summer at the base
Rock Climbing Photo: cause and effect
cause and effect

Comments on Pika Paradise Add Comment
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By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If this pitch was near the road it would be 3 stars and have a line at all times. Spectacular crack - even better than pitch 1 of the Lowe Route. Too bad it isn't longer.

There is a rap anchor on the big ledge at the base just past the start of this route. It is probably a double rope rap to the ground, and is worth checking out if you don't top out since traversing the ledge is a pain.

If you top out, drop down a bit before traversing back to the saddle between Question Mark Wall and the South Summit Wall. If you are making moves harder than class 3, you are off route.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 1, 2004

You guys didn't take a camera for your first trip to Lone Peak!!??? WTF??'s the snow patch in the cirque? What approach did u use? Water? ....Mark
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 1, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Don't worry - we took a camera and pictures will be coming as soon as i have time to compress them.

As of last weekend, there was a tiny dirty snowpatch at the base of the summit wall that some people were melting for water. never saw it running though, so you'll need a stove and maybe coffee filters to strain it. absolutely no other water along the approach from alpine. we just carried all of our water in, which was brutal but probably the best idea.

The cirque is incredible!
By Mike Marmar
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 29, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Beautiful perfect corner crack. Eats hand sized gear, and there are a few opportunities for smaller pieces in an incipient crack on the right face.

I found the first 20 feet or so to be insecure and definitely a notch harder than the first pitch of the Lowe route. Or maybe I was just tired...

First pitch is certainly less than 120 ft, probably somewhere around 80-100'. We rapped back to the ledge off the chockstone with a 70m with lots of rope to spare, and I suspect a 60m may work as well.
By Mark Kadlec
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree with Mike's last comment, this is definitely a rating higher than anything on The Lowe Route...maybe I was tired.

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