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Pigeon, The Other White Meat 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Euan Cameron, October 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,689
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 8, 2007

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Chris has a firm grasp of Pigeon, The Other White ...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


This route is essentially a link-up of two existing routes, but it does climb some new terrain and is one the easier offerings in the immediate vicinity.

Climb Shattered Dreams for it's first two bolts and then cut sharply left into a nice steep hand crack. Work up into an alcove formed by stacked blocks and then into a high undercling. Power over the bulge on reachy jugs and then run it out a little on easier ground to join Peter Principle for it's last two bolts and anchors.

It's possible to cut right to the anchors on Shattered Dreams as well, but you'll be making the finishing mantle quite far from your last bolt while looking at a bad fall onto a ledge.

Steep, athletic and fun climbing at a moderate grade make this a nice warm-up for the area. Note: it's advised to clip the 2nd and 3rd bolt with long draws to lessen any possible rope drag.


6 bolts, chain anchors (shared w/Peter Principle)

Photos of Pigeon, The Other White Meat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing in front of the line.
Standing in front of the line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pigeon, The Other White Meat (5.10a), Riverside Qu...
BETA PHOTO: Pigeon, The Other White Meat (5.10a), Riverside Qu...

Comments on Pigeon, The Other White Meat Add Comment
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By Euan Cameron
From: Mammoth Lakes
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Steep climbing on good but spaced out holds. The right exit is a little airy, but makes the climb last that little bit longer.
By Karl Rittger
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The 3rd bolt in the picture of this climb is on the lower block to the left. It makes for a pretty heady lead because you might deck on the ledge. I've didn't see a bolt hole on the upper block where the picture shows that bolt.

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