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Pig Pen 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 4,127
Submitted By: hEatchel on May 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: went back and found this at the base of the climb,...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Steepest section of rock. Amazing pockets leads to center crux. followed by huge slots to the chains. STEEP!


Little Mill Campground .. no more campsite .. obvious steeeeeeep rock on side of road.



Photos of Pig Pen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pig Pen 12a/b
BETA PHOTO: Pig Pen 12a/b
Rock Climbing Photo: moving to the glue-in
moving to the glue-in

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 11, 2017
By Bad Sock Puppet
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I've said this about several climbs in American Fork but I'll say it again, a must do classic! Boone Speed really hit the mark with this one. Easiest approach in the canyon. Start on a verticle face up to the high first bolt right at the beginning of the overhang. The face is littered with positive holds, but nothing but big moves will leave you pumped. Making dropknees your best friend will make this one a cinch.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 27, 2012

BSP is right. This is a must-do classic for AF, and there are no excuses to check it out, since the approach is zero. Pig Pen is the furthest right of the 3 climbs on this wall. Woodstock is the steep climb up the arete of this wall, but it isn't on Mountain Project. A useful hold broke off Woodstock last weekend, and it is a bit harder than 12b now.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

For the 12a climber this will be a fabulous workout. For me there were 3 definite cruxes. The holds are actually fairly positive with some huge jugs - yet the past vertical climbing will wear you out. Long moves and finding the right feet with the clock ticking is the name of the game. Go send it. 9 stars.
By Brennan Crellin
From: Millcreek, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Low-grade climb to high first bolt. Sustained large moves on bomber holds through all bolts to chains. Crux in center at right-slanted flake. Proper sequence and high feet on the big moves make this an awesome climb!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 31, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Fantastic jug pulling. Super easy for grade. The approach is a killer.
By Max Hansen
Nov 8, 2013

Manufactured? I swear there was a glue on hold about 2/3 the way up... looks like a solid 13 without the hold though. Great, consistent, reachy, steep, jug haul otherwise! Worth hopping on. Have fun with the tree on the rap!
By Leify Guy
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

5 bolts and chains...
By Leify Guy
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The crimp rail/flake started to flex, it felt like it was coming loose... it looks like it was glued at one point, but could definitely use a new glue job...
By Rob Job
From: Provo, UT
May 23, 2014

Great route. Once you've dialed in the beta this climb is a lot of fun. Until then, it is pretty pumpy. Actually, even with the beta dialed in it's still pretty pumpy. The right rail that you move off of to get to the left pocket where you clip the 3rd bold moved ever so slightly.
By Leify Guy
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Returned to find the crimp rail at the base of the route, the route still goes, but is quite a bit more difficult...
By automated
Jun 1, 2015

Pretty sure the fallen crimp has already been glued back on. It is now a comfy finger bucket.
By James Leavy
From: Provo, Uah
Jun 14, 2015

I went to climb this just last week, and like Leif said, the crimp rail is gone and hasn't been glued back on. Behind where the crimp rail was is a small crimp which cannot be matched on, you have to lock off with one arm and head straight for the big pocket. It honestly seems more fun this way though. Probably 12c.
By Tristan Mayfield
From: SLC, UT
Jun 22, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Super fun! Don't glue the crimp rail back on as the crux move is so satisfying when you stick it! Also, if you're looking at the grade and expecting a 12a, just keep in mind that it would be quite stout, it's just as hard a Helix in my opinion.
By Matthew Colemere
From: Alpine, Utah
Jul 11, 2017

Great route with big moves on big holds. The crux is pretty sharp and in your face, but I think that the crimp rail falling off doesn't make this much harder than the original grade (5.12a/b).

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