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Pig Iron 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, James Q Martin 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,044
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Joel & Carrie

Description 

Pig Iron is a striking, almost elegant looking line when seen from across canyon. However, the harder climbing on this pitch is both bouldery, and down home thin hands jamming. Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one piece fixed belay- bring medium wires to supplement.

From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this somewhat thuggy section. This feature was formed by a 6' long flake which came off in my bare hands while scoping the line.

After the roof, pick your way wisely through the next 40' of splitter crack climbing. The angle doesn't seem steep, but the thin hands jamming will test you for sure. It's 5.10+ that you could easily fall "out" of. At the end of the splitter section follow the crack as it bends to the right past several easy boulder problems, and then romp to the top.

Location 

100' east of Hobel Memorial. Just west (climbers right) of scrappy cedar on rim.

Protection 

Double set from #2 TCU- #1 Camalot. Extra #.75 Camalot, one each #0 and #1 TCU, one #2 Camalot, medium wires. Plenty of draws.


Photos of Pig Iron Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel & Carrie
Joel & Carrie
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel & Carrie
Joel & Carrie
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo topo.
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Q doing some of the good work.
Q doing some of the good work.
Rock Climbing Photo: Q taking a cleaning lap early on in the process.
Q taking a cleaning lap early on in the process.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel
Joel
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel
Joel

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