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Pierced Lip Lock 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Mark Rolofson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,114
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 19, 2011

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Pierced Lip Lock.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


This route stands out for me as the best at the cliff: fun, sustained climbing, requiring a variety of techniques on great rock in a beautiful setting. Easy climbing leads past the first bolt into a steep dihedral capped by roofs. Tread lightly at the pierced lip, and try not to break it or we'll have to rename the route "Busted Lip".


This is the 5th route from the left, on the right side of the main, West end, wall. This is the last route before you have to scramble up to reach the start of Academic Freedom.


14 bolts to anchors.

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By Andrew S.
From: Bouldurr
Jul 27, 2011

This thing is cool. Get to the "lip", hope she doesn't kiss you goodnight.
From: Denver Colorad
Oct 12, 2012

Stellar route.
By Austin Durr
May 5, 2014

This route is rewarding, very well-protected, and has a great view from the top. Well worth 3 1/2 stars.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The top half is a bucket of meh...take a star off for that, but the bottom half offer some of the coolest 11.soft moves on the Front Range. Awesome opossum!
By Michael Underwood
From: Denver, CO
Oct 16, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Just hang in there and you'll no doubt get the onsight of this fun climb. While the moves are interesting and some require a little power, I didn't find any of them to be deceptive to read or excessively pumpy. I might even go so far as to say that this ranks closer to 5.11a than 5.11b. As someone else noted, the climbing is less captivating toward the top, but you can make up for it by soaking in the views while shaking out your arms and fiddling with your chalkbag.

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