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Indian Wall
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Handful of Crack, Fistful of Pockets T 
Kindred Spirits S 
Pierced Ear S 
Raindance S 
Rat Race T 

Pierced Ear 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S. Unice and J. Christenson
Page Views: 1,232
Submitted By: Ken Heiser on Jan 14, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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At the anchors at the top of pitch one.


This is the second route from the left when facing the Indian Wall.

P1 5.10c Start up the steep slab clipping the first and second bolt.The crux is encountered at the second bolt passing a small overlap/flake. Continue on up the slab on nice sustained friciton passing several bolts to gain a ledge. After the ledge continue up through on another nice crux using pockets underclings and nice edges to a two bolt anchor.

P2 Continue on up the slab past several bolts to a belay tree.

Continue up a Sand Dunes, walk off, or rappel.

I gave this route three stars because I thought it was a super nice friction face route.


This climb is well protected by bolts.

Photos of Pierced Ear Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the ledge before the upper crux
On the ledge before the upper crux

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By Sking
Sep 14, 2014

I would recommend doing the whole route as one pitch due to the fact there are some spicy moves off the first anchor on some less-than-ideal rock. And one (such as myself) would have to pull these moves to reach the first bolt which would place one (such as myself) in a potential factor 2 fall situation. This is a stellar route sans the 15ft of choss section; great consistent 10- slab movement with the crux after the second bolt.

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