Pie in the Sky
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Pie in the Sky: something that is pleasant to contemplate but is very unlikely to be realized.
Here's the deal.
Have you ever tried to climb a giant cracker?
Because that's what pitch one is like.
It's horribly dirty and it will spew sand into your eyes and blocks onto you and your belayer's head.
Unfortunately, this atrocity guards a gorgeous dihedral up top. Which has fantastic movement, good rock, great exposure, and could be a 5 star climb.
That being said, because of the lower choss factory: this is not something I would recommend to a loved one. You've been warned:
Pitch one: 5.9(R/X) 35 meters, 2 bolt anchor under large roof.
Start on the slanted weakness next to the tree. Climb the tree about 10ft and get on the wall. Climb awful choss trending right to cracks.
The first 35ft or so has maybe 3 pieces of protection that 100% wont hold you anyway. Once you are in the cracks the gear gets better and you can hand jam. I still wouldn't want to fall on this unconsolidated horror.
Pitch 2, 5.11, 50 meters, 2 bolt anchor at summit.
The Money Pitch, It's really good! Clip a bolt 6 feet upright from the anchor. Layback and Stem up a tips corner.
From here the route is 30 meters of 4-6+ inch offwidth dihedral. Inside the gaping hole, you can place smaller cams and find occasion handholds. Run it out a bit. Up to here its about 5.10.
The 5.11 starts when you bust out the exposed roof crack which takes a #5 camalot, into the overhung dihedral you can stem and eventually chimney.
Pull the lip, top out.
Rap the route. 2 ropes required.
Done onsight, ground up.
Up the obvious dihedral on the cliff, behind the boulders.
Climbed with a double rack to #3 camalot; single 4,5,6.
Extra 4 & 5 Camalots would have been nice... Lots of runners. Helmet.
Possibly a stretcher in case of a fall or being clocked by a rock.
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
To reiterate on protection: going without a helmet is one of the best ways I can think of to lose most if not all of your IQ points.
I am very much convinced that a solid sneeze can cause large sections of the cracker to simply slough off.
Let our ill advised experimentation serve to satisfy any remaining curiosity regarding line you see from the boulders: save your time, your health, and your sphincter tone, just carry pads and enjoy the well cleaned, actually solid blocs below this wall.
By K. Boyko
From: Where the dog is
Sep 12, 2016
It is rad! I'm not discouraging anyone if they really want to get after it. Just a fair and serious warning.
I also figured, this is a database. So why not upload info. If anyone looks up and is curious, there is reference available.