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Pico Maior

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Leste (East) T 
No Mundo da Lua T 

Pico Maior Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,760'
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Administrators: Raiden, Tony Yeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Christian Storms on Jul 19, 2014
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Pico Major viewed from the summit of Capacete.

Description 

Pico Maior, the is the highest mountain in the sierra at 7760 feet, offers 2300 feet granite walls mixing all climbing styles in routes ranging from 8-19 pitches. Some pitches are on vertical walls with huge feldspar crystals protruding from the many pegmatite dikes.
The East Face of Pico Major – the route known as Leste or East in Portuguese – is considered the most classic route. It is graded at 5.9 or 4° V A1E3.
The Arco da Velha route set up in 1986 is a great option for those more experienced climbers.

Major routes include:
Leste (East) 4° V A1E3 (Pico Maior)
Arco da Velha 6° VI+ (Pico Maior)
Pontão do Sol 5° VI + (Pico Maior)
Variante Psylocybis 3° (Pico Maior)

Getting There 

The nearest two is Nova Friburgo. To get to here, Drive toward the Sierra to Nova Friburgo then follow the road to Teresópolis until km 46. Turn at the sign "Salinas, São Lourenço, Barracão de Mendes". From this point is just follow the signs to "Três Picos" and drive more 5km approximately to reach the park access and some mountain lodges.
Actual roads are:
Cross Rio-Niterói bridge (14 km) to Niterói. Take BR-101 North to Itaboraí. Take RJ-116 (Rota 116) to Cachoeiros de Macacu to Nova Friburgo. Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis. In 30 km turn to Salinas valley at left. Go to Conquista District then
Santa Cruz District then São Lourenço District. Turn to right to IBELGA School to the end of the road.

Climbing Season

For the Brazil area.

Weather station 12.6 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pico Maior

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pico Maior:
Leste (East)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 17 pitches, 2788'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pico Maior

Featured Route For Pico Maior
Rock Climbing Photo: On the way

Leste (East) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  South America : Brazil : ... : Pico Maior
P1: 5.6 slab, protection at 3/8"P2: 5.7 slab protection at 3/8"P3: 5.7 slab with one bolt.P4: Traverse right, protection at 3/8"and on and on....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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