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Pico da Tijuca

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Magia Vertical T 

Pico da Tijuca Rock Climbing 


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Location: -22.94373, -43.28724 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 47
Administrators: Raiden, Tony Yeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: PortlandRob on Jul 2, 2017
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Description 

Tijuca Peak is a Granite peak with several multi-pitch routes in the middle of the Tijuca Forest. Parking is free at the base of the trailhead which goes all the way to the summit.

Getting There 

Drive to the Tijuca Peak trailhead (Base da trilha do Pico da Tijuca):
From either Av.Edison Passos or Estrada das Furnas (Rua Boa Vista), turn north on Estrada da Cascatinha. Continue onto Caminho dos Picos, and then onto Estrada Dom Pedro Augusto, which becomes Estrada Maj. Archer which will take you to the parking lot. Gates open at 8am.

The trail to Pico da Tijuca is at the end of the parking lot, where there are some cement tables, and there is usually an employee in the guard shack. Walk the well maintained trails and after about 5 minutes arrive at a fork. Ignore the left fork towards the Pico do Papagaio and instead stay straight for Pico da Tijuca. The trail starts up, then has a downhill section, but then climbs up again. After about 30 minutes amidst a series of switchbacks, you need to leave the trail towards the wall, where the base of P3, Caipirinha and Magia Vertical are located. Look for a log with a Roman Numeral (III, if I remember right) carved into the log at this left turning switchback. Take this small trail to the base of the North Side of Tijuca Peak.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Pico da Tijuca
Rock Climbing Photo: The dihedral at the base of Magia Vertical

Magia Vertical 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  South America : Brazil : ... : Pico da Tijuca
P1 (5.8): Start at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Lie back the first half of the pitch and then transition into optional face climbing on the outside of the dihedral (right side) higher up. After about 60 feet arrive at a good belay ledge with a single bolt on top of the dihedral.P2 (5.11a): Balancey and powerful face climbing eases higher up leading to a two bolt anchor. All of the hard moves are well protected with bolts.P3 (5.10): Easy 5.7/5.8 climbing leads to a delicate traverse right....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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