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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob Robertson
Page Views: 1,173
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Above the roof and starting into the flake system ...


This is a fun line that burls over a prominent, juggy roof. The crux is just under the roof - a short series of thin and somewhat technical moves to jugs, where the roof-climbing starts. There is another strenuous section after you get over the roof.

This line lies a couple hundred yards to the right of the Mural Wall, on the far right edge of this wall. Walk all the way right until you come to the fence and then look at the cliff. The route has red angle-iron hangers, and the third bolt is a difficult clip.

My guide says 12b, but it seemed sort of easy for that grade. But I'm not too sure, so I'll stick with the guide.


6 bolts.

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By Walt Wehner
Apr 26, 2002

Heh. Solid pi, eh? I'm sure there are some other nerds that'll get the joke.

Seriously, though. It's only 11d.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2003

While a very fun route and definately worth doing there is no way it's 12b. At best, it would settle at soft 12a. Do the slew of 12a's on the Mural Wall proper, and you would have to agree. All are as hard or harder than Pi. Peace.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 30, 2005

There is good size runout (20ft) from the last bolt to the anchors on easy 5.10 climbing. A few small cams in the final undercling might take some of the pucker factor out.

There was a large quick link on the last bolt when I attempted the route.
By Ed Schmitt
Mar 14, 2009

Guy, I broke the quicklink getting scared above it and falling instead of getting my feet up to the ledges. Bob Robertson said I could add an extra bolt, but even after my fall, I decided it was perfect as it was. It was my 50th birthday present to finally get this one. I think it is one of Shelf's best 12a's.
By Darryl Roth
Jan 19, 2012

Note, as Ed indirectly said above... this is a Bob Robertson FA.
By Nate Liles
Jan 31, 2016

Rebolted in 2015, hardware courtesy of the ASCA.
Consider a donation today @

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