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PI patrol 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: slim on Sep 1, 2005

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Hubbel's book shows this as 5.10d and a walkoff, we were surprised on both accounts.

This route is located near the center of the south face of Flathead Dome. It is an obvious lightning bolt shaped offwidth/chimney that looks kind of similar to the Bishop offwidth.

Scramble up to the bottom of the chimney via a low angle hand crack to a slabby ledge. The bottom of the chimney is extremely bushy, which is kind of a pain in the ass for belaying.

Wiggle up through the chimney, past a constriction, and more wiggling to the top. Climbs a lot like the fun 5.7 chimneys at Vedauwoo. Not sure how it got the 10d rating, but it is quite possible that nobody had really climbed it before? We were surprised when we got on top and there was no way to walk or scramble off. We set up two big pieces in the crack at the back end of the boulder, and rapped down into a corridor. We then hiked back to the truck, grabbed our little hand drills, TR'd back up the crack inside the corridor, and played [dueling] hammers for a while. We put the rap anchor at the top out, and it can also serve to TR a neat flaring, steep crack that exits left out of the chimney about halfway up.

Definitely worth doing if in the area.


Couple of hand to fist sized pieces, possibly a [large] cam or big bro.

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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 21, 2005

To me, it seems unlikely that a line like this has not been climbed.

However, if someone were [competent] enough to get down without anchors (downclimb the route or needles rappel), I'd assume such a person would know the difference between stout 5.7 and 10d.

I'd like to hear from others who have climbed this route, their rating opinion and how they got down.

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